Fuel Sarvation 1986 Voyager

[bamboozer]

Pump does not run, period. Tried removing the wires on the solenoid to run it with starter button depressed, nothing. Fuel filter replaced, no change. Big fan of "the wiggle test" so I have been wiggling and moving the wires around since I started. If I can't find and clean the pumps points I will replace the pump just to remove the pump from the probably cause list, at 34 years old it's earned a rest anyway.

[bamboozer]

Read the article about fuel filter points in Tech Tips, since this is an 1986 I may well be able to see the screw holding the cover on, might be able to leave the pump in it's bracket as well as it's not inclined to cooperate. This may well be the problem as when I started out to get the bike running I could definitely hear some pumping action going on when energizing the ignition lock, now all I get is a very faint click. Will report back tomorrow, regardless I feel like I'm making progress and can get this old horse back on the road here it belongs.

[VoyKimmer]

It's here. Scroll up and down until,you find it.

https://amervoyassoc.org/techtipsXII2.p ... Pump_Point

[bamboozer]

Accessed the fuel pump points, as expected they were badly corroded. I cleaned them up with fine sand paper until I achieved bare metal, will reinstall this afternoon and hopefully start the bike up. Then it's on to fork seals and new brake pads.

[bamboozer]

Cleaned the points on the fuel pump and put it back in place, still will not start. When I turn the key on I can hear a slow click, but that's all, filter is obviously full of fuel. Bad pump? Get a replacement? It's only $20 so it won't break me.

[triton28]

The fuel pump will slow in it's clicking as the back pressure of the float needle valves increases due to the rising level of fuel in the float chambers. When the chambers are full the pump will stop it's clicking noise completely due to the back pressure on the pump's internal diaphragm.
Try opening the float bowl drain screws, draining the bowls and then closing the drain screws. Next try your usual procedure for testing the pump and see if the fuel pump cuts in to refill the bowls. It should, provided there is power at the pump, start a rapid clicking due to the decrease in back pressure, followed by decreasing clicks until the bowls are full of fuel and the back pressure reaches the 2 or 3 pound threshold designed into the pump, at which point the pump will stop.
If this clicking sequence occurs then the pump is doing it's thing.
Dave

[bamboozer]

Float bowls are empty, perhaps a drip or two. Pump noise is slow and steady, I put my finger on it, you can feel it "thump". Ordered a reproduction pump, at $20 it's worth it to eliminate the pump as part of the problem.

[bamboozer]

New fuel pump day, wish me luck.

[cranky]

LUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!

[bamboozer]

New pump is in, definitely working as I can hear it clearly, however now the bike will not turn over. Noticed that neither the old pump or the new one had any indication of which was the inlet and which the outlet. Tried to position the new pump exactly like the old one and fuel hoses fit very well. Fuel is getting to the pump as the fuel filter is full of fuel. Noticed that when key is engaged pump runs continuously at what seems to be a high speed and does not seem to slow down. New pump looked similar to the old but inlet and outlets seemed to be positioned differently , any chance it won't turn over because I reversed the fuel hoses? All help appreciated.

[bamboozer]

Got it turning over, can hear the new pump going but it does not slow down. Tomorrow I will try reversing the fuel hoses at the pump. There is definitely fuel in the tank and in the fuel filter ( It's a clear one).

[bamboozer]

Reversed the fuel lines, pump runs to get pressure up as it should now, still no fuel in the carb float bowls. Going to buy a length of fuel line to make sure it's actually pumping the fuel, thinking about trying to gravity feed the fuel from another tank, right now I have nothing suitable. Fuel is definitely running out of the tank and into the filter.

[Barry]

Once a year I drain the carbs. Sometimes I will get some debris that somehow gets past the filter. I use Gene's suggested procedure and use the fuel pump to flush everything when I find debris. Only open one drain at a time so some pressure can build. My bike is 30 years old. I think ethanol is removing plaque from it's old original arteries. If your pump won't run continuously with a drain open, only then would I remove it. One other thought: Your floats could be stuck in the up position and not allowing fuel to flow into the bowls at the correct rate. With only one drain open, run the pump. If you don't get a stream of fuel, then try tapping on the float bowl to get the float to drop. Pulling the carbs for cleaning is not what I think of as fun. Keep us informed as to what you discover.

[bamboozer]

I certainly agree, I have no desire to remove the carbs. The new pump is in and working, I have previously drained the gas from the carbs. Tried running the pump with one of the drains removed and got nothing. Going to buy a length of fuel hose so I can test the pump straight out of the pumps outlet, suspect it will be good. Should be noted there is no rust in the fuel tank inlet and I fuel I have drained looks good, I realize the appearance of the fuel is no guarantee it's good. If I do remove the carbs am I going to need to buy carb kits for all 4 carbs, or can I get away with just dropping the float bowls for a look at the floats?

[Barry]

You can drop the bowl off the right carb without removing the carbs. It can get messy, but this would let you actually see the valve open and close. It would also give you a good idea of the condition of the rest of the carbs. I suspect you may be removing them for overhaul. Is the bike new to you? Do you know about the ignitor problem on the 86-87 models?

[bamboozer]

Supposedly ignitor is upgraded. Should note the bike ran great before I let it sit for a few years. Bought some tubing and ran it off the pumps output, as expected it works very well and pumps the fuel out. Opened the right side carburetor drain and barely go a drop of fuel. Suspect I will be pulling the carbs (Bummer!) but first I will drop the right side carbs float bowl to see if the float is up or down. What's the easiest way to get the air cleaner manifold off? It's not immediately apparent.

[bamboozer]

Removed two of the float bowl drains and blew into the output tube . Nothing, totally stopped up. Need to remove the air box that's connected to the crabs, any suggestions. Other than be careful.

[bamboozer]

We got it running! But not well, turns out a guy I know was a bike mechanic for 25 years. We drained more gas out of the tank until it ran clear. The plugs are fouled so we cleaned the two we could get at quickly, with starting fluid we got it running and kept it that way for a bit. It will idle but there are still problems. Getting a new set of plugs and taking it from there.

[bamboozer]

new plugs are in, as predicted plugs for 2 & # were gross and fouled badly. Still will not idle other than briefly, suspect like it or not the carbs are going to have to come off... Any suggestions?

[JHD]

You could send your carb set to Carl Leo. He might have a rebuilt set ready to ship. Not an easy job removing the carbs, Carl can also give you a few pointers to make that job easier. You will want to check your intake/air box flange rubber for cracks punctures. I would also recommend you check your plug caps and wires.