Another voyager newby carb question

[mickier]

Well I picked up a beautiful 2002 Xii from the [almost] original owner(who had it since 400 miles). It now has just 13k miles, and it's been parked in a warehouse for a bunch of years. Dusty, but looks like it's in good shape. Even had the original kawasaki soft luggage in the saddlebags -- still in the original plastic bags - never used ha!

I started by pulling the carbs and tank for cleaning, Drained the anti-freeze, repaired the metal radiator hoses which attach to the heads between cyl 1&2, 3&4(lots of corrosion there including a pin hole which I've welded), changed the rest of the fluids etc... and I'm pretty close to putting it all back together.

Have to say I found a GOLD MINE of information HERE in this forum THANK YOU everybody!

My question is with the carbs... The Pilot screws seem a bit NUTZ.... Still had the ?original? (maybe not) CAPS - however they were set as follows:

#1 - *maybe* 1/8 turn out (practically closed)
#2 - just over 2 turns out
#3 - just over 1 1/2 turns out
#4 - just over 1 1/2 turns out

Most instructions seem to say put 'em back to original - but these settings seem pretty crazy to me..-- am I off base? Should I really put them back that way? or can I assume they were set badly last time? --- I kinda feel like trying them all at 1 1/2 or something like that - don't know... I'm pretty sure the carbs have been out before because one of the rubber boots had a lip folded over and wasn't sealing .

I'm looking for SAGE advice here first, before I just dork with it ha!

[tnpete]

Set mine at 2 1/4th turns. Others go more and less.
Sounds like the factory plugs were drilled out. Someone had set them by feel.

[triton28]

Some carb rebuild kits come with replacement plugs for the pilot screw aperture. Perhaps that is the case here as screws are set at 2 turns from the factory then plugged. Each engine will be different but 2 turns is a good starting point, albeit a little on the lean side at 2. I like tnpete, and possibly others, use 2-1/4 turns. I used to hear rumbles in the exhaust while decelerating with the screws set at 2 turns out but that stopped at 2-1/4 turns. YMMV.
That folded over rubber lip is sort of a dead giveaway I think.

[mickier]

Thank you both for your quick responses! I put them at 2 1/4, installed the carbs and hooked up a fuel can to the pump - IT's ALIVE...! yay.
To my delight, it started and actually idled pretty well! Still cold and I had to flip the choke a couple of times, but what a great feeling. First time to hear it.

Now just 50 more things to finish - replace brake/clutch fluid, flush coolant a couple more times, install the (now clean) tank, put the frame together, install all the body panels and bags etc and wash wash... that warehouse was dusty!

[tnpete]

When I cleaned my tank. I used electrolysis on it. Looks new inside now and should not rust again.
Also bled all fluids in the brakes and clutch. Then back brakes were not releasing all the way. Got that fixed then front did the same thing. so 3 rebuild kits later there all good.

[mickier]

My brakes are working - but they're dragging a bit - kinda hard to roll the bike. The rotors are a little rusty and I *hope* that's most of the problem, and that they'll be fine once I take off the calipers and clean up everything... otherwise it's a rebuild kit for me too... Fluid's not dark - so I'm hopeful!

[mickier]

Back to the carb settings - The bike started and ran pretty well. I only ran it for about 30 seconds, as I'm still flushing the coolant - but the engine idled right away, then the rpms came up pretty quick and I had to reduce the choke... heard some pops and backfires a few times, and my shop filled up with stinky smoke - so I'm not there yet! I'd like to turn the tails out-doors and try to clear out the spiders and moth balls from the system and exhaust pipes, but that's easier said than done since the frame's still apart and it's on the center stand... dang it - maybe I'll just leave it where it is, open the garage doors and use a large fan!

One more short run to flush coolant again, and then I'll try to adjust the thing. Watched a couple youtube's for tuning advice.

So glad this think wasn't parked outside all these years (!) coulda been ruined. Thankfully it was stored inside and climate controlled, so far, everything seems pretty decent, and with any luck I hope to have it going by the time we get good weather.

[tnpete]

While mine was in way to many parts. I ran to walmart, picked up 2 10ft dryer vent hose. Stuck them over the exhaust thus getting the stuff out the shop (Basement) Door. Worked perfect and easy to put up after using it. I also had a fan in front of the bike on high also.
My brakes were like your. I thought man I'm a 6ft1" 220 lb weaklin. Could not walk the bike backwards out the door. Found out with the bike jacked up. It was not me, but the rear tire was almost stuck. I could turn it, but man it took effort. Same with the front after that. Now rolls like it should.

[mickier]

ha! that's a great idea - didn't think of that - dryer vent...

[mickier]

I started up the engine last night and warmed it up so I could try and tune the carbs... but no joy...

Something's wrong - it starts instantly and idles at 3000rpm, but that's it... in fact, 3000 rpm is how low the rpms went after I turned in the idle knob all the way. Twisting the throttle just makes the engine bog - it won't rev at all... Something's flooding it out. Clouds of heavy stinky exhaust.

I pulled the carbs again (hadn't put the airbox in, so that wasn't too bad.) Pulled them apart again and double-checked everything. Gotta figure out what's not right. If I was to guess I'd imagine it's something like the diaphragms not lifting the slides, or maybe the needle valve seats weren't seated properly or something..

Spent a lot of time blasting out the passages with carb spray and compressed air - everything seems clear. I'll reassemble again tonight or tomorrow, and give her another try.

The slides move very smoothly, float levels set to 17mm, Pilot screws at 2 1/4. Can't imagine that adjusting those would have made the carbs recover - there's NO response to the throttle at all - except a bog...

~sigh~

[tnpete]

Did you bench sync them? Sounds like there way out, you should be able to look at the engine side of the carb's. Be able to see the butterfly valves are not all the same.
Also did you open the choke and blow through that passage? I had to hole the slide that opens the chokes. Then blow air through those.

[bikerking.biz]

My brakes are working - but they're dragging a bit - kinda hard to roll the bike. The rotors are a little rusty and I *hope* that's most of the problem, and that they'll be fine once I take off the calipers and clean up everything... otherwise it's a rebuild kit for me too... Fluid's not dark - so I'm hopeful!

Here's where to check for dragging brake problems: https://amervoyassoc.org/techtipsXII2. ... g%20Brakes

[mickier]

Duplicate post

[mickier]

Ya all are so helpful thanks...

I had bench syncd them. Went through them again and same result but this time as I was fiddling with the idle screw I suddenly saw it was hanging up the throttle lever probably happened while I hooked up the throttle cables... Was holding the throttle partially open... Just then it slipped back correctly and voila , rpm came down, acting normal.

It's so great, idles and runs well... Bogs a bit if I rev it too fast, some of that's the air box which I gotta put back on, and I'm still going to tune ita but...

[mickier]

Thanks for the brake issue tip BikerKing!

I'll check that out - I'm pretty sure that's the ticket

[mickier]

NEARLY got it back together... it starts with less than 1 second on the starter button YAY...
Even when cold - it's like 2 seconds. can't wait to ROLL

Had to post this - I had a BUGGER of a time getting the rear (inner) fender in... Bolt holes just were all in the WRONG place - kept looking and looking for my missing bracket...

suddenly dawned on me - it was in BACKWARDS... DOH!

amazing - fits a lot better the right way around.