Threw a DFI Code today.

[Van Voyager]

So, I was out for a ride on the ZN1300 today. Made a few stops then, at one point, bike wouldn't start (first time that's ever happened). Fortunately, I was on a slight incline (and I mean really slight) but it was enough, with me pushing, using just my feet while seated on the bike, to bump start it. Bike bump-started right up but I immediately got a flashing DFI error. Rode the bike home, about 45 minutes, without any difficulties. Voltage while riding looked good and the battery showed 12.xx volts when I got home and it started right up. Spent some time around the neighborhood making a few short stops/start-ups (purposely not leaving much re-charge time between start-ups) and sure enough, after several start-ups, it wouldn't star-up again (measured voltage while starting dropped to about 5 v). So, I'm pretty sure the battery is hooped. Since there's no way to retrieve the DFI error once the ignition is turned off (what rocket scientist came up with that setup?) I don't know what caused the error but at this point I'm chalking it up to having a hooped battery.

I think the charging system is working OK (seems to be plenty of voltage when the motor is running) but I'll start checking the alternator outputs to make they're working when I have more time.

Also measured a parasitic draw of about 15mA with the key off which I assume is probably normal (I've never measured it before) ??

[Me Again]

90% chance the code is because you bump started it.
You are probably right about the battery but next time it is running I would make sure it is charging .

[Van Voyager]

90% chance the code is because you bump started it.
You are probably right about the battery but next time it is running I would make sure it is charging .

It is charging, at least at some level, and it does increase with RPM. KZ1300 Manual says ~15v with the headlight disconnected - I haven't disconnected the headlight but I'm definitely not getting 15v. Is there a charging spec for the dual alternator models? - I need to do some more checking.

[Van Voyager]

Did some more digging...

Had left the smart trickle charger on over night and oddly, it was still charging this morning - which is a weird (also weird that once I turned it on/off it stopped working all together so I think it's now hooped ???) In any case the battery seemed to be fully charged and only dropped two volts while starting. Hmmmmm, maybe there's nothing wrong with the battery ???

Charging voltage increases with RPM but only marginally from about 12.5v at idle to 13.2v at 4k RPM. Made measurements with everything connected (I did disconnect the headlight at one point but and the range was definitely larger but not significantly so). KZ1300 manual says it should be between 'Battery Voltage ~15v'. I'm wondering if ZNs charge at a higher rate at idle and don't rise that much with RPM since they have more of a 'low idle' power demand due to accessories)?

The main alternator checks out within spec. Inter phase resistance ~1/2 ohm (hard to measure that low of a resistance accurately with a crappy meter that I have but it's consistent between the three legs). No-load output between legs rises to about 50v AC at 4k RPM which is as it should be (again according to KZ1300 specs).

Behavior may point to a faulty R/R (Shindengen SH541-12) but I'm skeptical of that without knowing the impact of the second Alternator/ RR.

Does any one have the factory measurements for testing ZN1300 model charging system (dual alternator/Dual R/R ) ?

Does anyone know if all SH541-12 R/R models are actually the same unit but may have different connector configurations?

[Me Again]

With the headlight on you should be throwing over 14 volts @ around 2000 rpm . If much under that one or both stators are bad .No they re not the same .Probably the easiest way to check it is to push the Volt/Temp buttons by ignition switch and give it a little rev to see if the gage moves and how much
Testing procedure is on page 352 of the base manual .
Here is a copy of the KZ base manual and the ZN supplement
Good luck

https://www.kz1300.com/modules/ServiceM ... Manual.pdf
https://www.kz1300.com/modules/ServiceM ... 300SMS.pdf

[Van Voyager]

Thanks for pointing out those suppliments ME.

Voltmeter on the dash shows a one bar increase when the bike is rev'ed up (it's always shown that since I've had the bike). How many bars does yours go up when you rev it?

According to the supplementary manual, the test procedure and specs for both alternators are basically the same. So, my main rotor is within specs, I need to check the secondary one out.

[Van Voyager]

Did some checking and re-checking. Both Stators check out in terms of resistance and voltage output as per manual specs. All the diodes in both R/R rectifier bridges check out properly (checked both directions for each diode - total of 24 measurements.) Sadly there's no way to check out the Regulator function.

Measuring at the brown wire of the R/R, I'm getting about 0.45v drop from battery voltage (with the key on). I'm assuming that drop is mostly attributable to the the ignition switch. If that 'brown wire' voltage is used as some sort of a reference by the Regulator, a slightly lower value there might explain a slightly lower R/R output. At some point, I'm going to try jumpering battery voltage directly to that brown wire terminal to see if that bump up the R/R output voltage.

I notice the manual alternator schematic shows a 'Main Switch'. I assume this is the under seat switch on KZ1300? Did Z1300's have them too - ZN1300 do not have that switch - that I'm aware of.

[Me Again]

I would probably be drifting towards the starter relay about now.
If the stators test good and your battery is holding a charge and it bump starts easily then I would think ignition circuit.
Regulator , rectifier . or igniter would cause a no run condition rather than a no start.
A bad safety switch would likely not bump start either .
I had one with a broken wire at the switch but that would also quit when you turned the bars.
The start button may be bad .easy way to check that is if your headlight comes on when you touch the button even if bike did not start.
Good Luck
Bill

[Van Voyager]

I think the starter circuit is OK. There's plenty of cranking when I hit the starter and the bike starts right up even when cold. The one time that I had a 'no-start' was due to low battery voltage.

At this point, aside from slightly low charging level, everything seems to be working as it should. Either the battery is on it's way out or there is a Regulator problem. I'm going to see if I can beg/borrow/steal a working R/R to do some more testing. In the meantime, it's finally going to be dry for a few days here so I'll be doing some riding - I'll see how that goes.

[Van Voyager]

I've been riding around the last few days and everything seems to be working fine - the charging level is lower than ideal (~13.5v) but the battery is charging so I guess I'm good to go. I'm still planning on doing some static testing of the Regulators but I'll do that over the winter at this point.

I think I've figured out caused my initial 'no start'. I noticed yesterday, when I went to check the voltage with a meter at the trickle charger pigtail - no voltage. Turns out the fuse in the pigtail had blown. So, I'm thinking that, last week, when I put the trickle charger on the day before I went for a ride, it went a bit crazy, and died, and actually stared to draw until at some point it blew the fuse. So, while I thought the battery was fully charged it was actually down.