NOW I am pissed.

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Chris Cochran
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Current bike(s): 2005 Virago 250
2006 Vulcan 750
1986 Voyager XII
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Re: NOW I am pissed.

Post by Chris Cochran »

This morning I put the front fairing back on and cleaned out the garage on the side where the Voyager sat. So now it doesn't look like an explosion happened. Parts and tools were all over. Just cleaning the garage felt like an accomplishment.

It started and ran strong for about two minutes. Sounded healthy for a bike that sat for over five years. Then I determined that one of the carbs was overflowing a bit so that's why I shut it off. Not much but enough that it needs tending to. At least this time it was me deciding to turn it off instead of it crapping out due to gooked up carbs. So, Monday I will figure out which carb is being obnoxious and pull them again. But this time around I have experience doing so. The last time I had never really touched them before. So it should go more smoothly this time around.

Hopefully the next time I start it, it will be a good time to synchronize the carbs and start the coolant system flush.

Hearing the engine fire right up with no hiccups was wonderful. That was a morale booster!
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SgtSlag
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Joined: Mon Oct 04, 2010 10:04 pm
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Current bike(s): 1993 Voyager XII (2010)
(2006-2012: 1979 Honda CB750K)
(2008-2010: 1983 Kawasaki 440LTD, belt drive)
Location: Minnesota
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Re: NOW I am pissed.

Post by SgtSlag »

If you plan to upgrade electrical things, I recommend a sub-fuse block for it, under the faux tank. I installed two, 2-tone car horns (Low tone/High tone; an air horn would be better) wired directly to the battery with the original circuit operating a relay which energizes them; a 12-volt accessory outlet, mounted atop the Cruise Control box on the faux tank; and some LED running lights mounted on the crash bars (relay turns them on with the other lights), also wired directly to the battery through the sub-fuse block. Go with spotlights, not wide beams, for running lights, 10 Watts, or higher -- the more Lumens, the better, but mind the total Wattage load on the Charging System! A Voltmeter, wired directly to the battery terminals, is very highly recommended; this will allow you to monitor that the battery is, in fact, charging, rather than draining, going down the road: 13 Volts is the bare minimum!

I converted all but the instrument lights to LED's, which gave me a surplus of Amps to play with. My alternator's output/charging voltage increased by 1.5 Volts, going down the highway, to 13.6-14+ Volts. This lessened the stress on the AGM battery and the alternator. The direct wiring on the horns makes them as loud as they can be. Cheers!
SgtSlag

1993 Voyager XII
Chris Cochran
Traveler
Traveler
Posts: 184
Joined: Tue May 10, 2022 12:32 am
2
Current bike(s): 2005 Virago 250
2006 Vulcan 750
1986 Voyager XII
Has liked: 61 times
Been liked: 58 times

Re: NOW I am pissed.

Post by Chris Cochran »

I had upgraded to LEDs on my 750 Vulcan. All but the instrument lights and the headlight. I will change the headlight when it finally craps. WOW! LEDs really light the thing up for damn sure.

As for the Voyager, sure I plan to upgrade but that'll be way down the road, time-wise. I want people to see me.
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SgtSlag
King of the Road
King of the Road
Posts: 1054
Joined: Mon Oct 04, 2010 10:04 pm
14
Current bike(s): 1993 Voyager XII (2010)
(2006-2012: 1979 Honda CB750K)
(2008-2010: 1983 Kawasaki 440LTD, belt drive)
Location: Minnesota
Has liked: 23 times
Been liked: 235 times

Re: NOW I am pissed.

Post by SgtSlag »

Chris Cochran wrote: Sat Sep 10, 2022 2:29 amAs for the Voyager, sure I plan to upgrade but that'll be way down the road, time-wise. I want people to see me.
I hear you, on being seen! We watched Shark Tank, saw this product advertised, and so we took a chance on it... This thing is BRIGHT! It is the best helmet brake light we have seen, thus far. I would post video on it, but my phone camera will automatically adjust for its brightness, so it really won't demonstrate just how good it is.

We bought two helmet mounts, one for my helmet, one for my wife's helmet. We ride one bike, two up, 99% of the time. We trade positions on the bike, every two hours, swapping the cordless light every time we change positions. It is amazing how effective it is. I followed my wife on the bike one time, in our cage, so I could see what it looked like. It will be seen, unless the driver behind us is looking away. It lasts around 8 hours of usage; it is completely self-contained, no wiring, other than a removable USB cable to charge it; it is programmable for the style of activation (flash scheme) you prefer; it automatically triggers upon deceleration, with, or without, you hitting your brakes; it modulates its flashing according to your deceleration rate.

Take a look at their web site's demo videos. This is the real deal, those videos are not faked in any way. This is probably the best brake light modulator you could ever equip your bike with, bar none. Cheers!
:perfect10: :perfect10: :perfect10: :thmup:
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Chris Cochran (Mon Sep 12, 2022 8:12 pm) • cushman eagle (Tue Sep 13, 2022 12:06 am)
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SgtSlag

1993 Voyager XII
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