gas leak at carb

[Sci_]

Hello guys,
I just got my 2001 out of storage and found that I have a gas leak where the gas line goes into the carbs. It is driving me crazy that I can’t get to the “squeeze clamp” that holds the gas line on the carbs because the lower air box is in the way. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove the lower air box so I can get to the clamp (gas line leak) or is there another way?
Thanks in advance,
Dan

[Nails]

Yeah, get all pissed off and start throwing things. Mine often suddenly comes apart just after that.

But be advised that this ain't nuthin' compared to getting the bitch back on. This particular job should be formally recognized as some kind of initiation.

I use a large hemostat for these low-torque things. Or some long needle-nose pliers, similarly curved.

Good luck!

[Sci_]

Thanks Nails,
Say, what all would I need to do to replace the whole gas line? I am handy (I have had the carbs off and completely apart but that was years ago and I had the whole bike apart). Nothing in my manual about replacing the gas line.

[Nails]

I haven't been there in a while and don't remember. Basically just a matter of cutting the length of fuel line you need.

I suggest looking at posts about replacing the fuel filter. I probably replaced my lines when I did that.

[Sci_]

Found out that the leak is at the O-rings on the inlet “T”. I would like to replace all of the “o-rings (9?). Has anyone found them at a local hardware store?

[Conrad]

(Email sent)
I got mine from service honda, i would think partzilla or anyone who sells oem parts for kawasaki would sell them. I replaced all of them, be aware that they are NOT all the same, if i remember correctly it was 6 of one part # and 4 of another.

[GrandpaDenny]

(Email sent)
I got mine from service honda, i would think partzilla or anyone who sells oem parts for kawasaki would sell them. I replaced all of them, be aware that they are NOT all the same, if i remember correctly it was 6 of one part # and 4 of another.

viewtopic.php?p=95642&hilit=specialties#p95642 has an excellent source, but you'd probably have to buy more than four - their prices are WAAAAAAY cheaper than OEM, and I think they have a $20 minimum. So you can buy a bunch and sell the extras to us here on the list. As a matter of fact, I'm going up there (they're about a half hour from me) soon to get oil filter o-rings.

[Sci_]

Thanks for the info Dennis. I could do that. Is there a better way to get the sizes we need than to send in one each of the old ones? Anywhere to find a schematic with the sizes (they are not listed in the service manual).

[GrandpaDenny]

Thanks for the info Dennis. I could do that. Is there a better way to get the sizes we need than to send in one each of the old ones? Anywhere to find a schematic with the sizes (they are not listed in the service manual).

Partzilla has parts manuals online. Sometimes the sizes are listed. Tell you what, when you figure out what size you need, let me know and I can pick some up for you when I go up there.

Anybody else need o-rings?

[Sci_]

I hate to impose on you Dennis but I removed a couple O-rings and they measure 6.5 mm ID, 8.5 mm OD, 2 mm thickness (.075 in. thick x .25 in. ID, .34 in. OD). I need 6 pcs. but will take 10 or 12 if it is handy for you. Don’t go out of your way but if you do get some, I’m at PO Box 243, Battle Creek, NE 68715. Let me know how much to send you.
Thanks again,
Dan

[triton28]

With the following measurements in mind one should be careful when one chooses to use non OEM o-rings for the vent rails and ESPECIALLY the fuel interconnecting rails.
The measurements were taken using a digital vernier caliper on 2 different sets of clean carburetor bodies and on both the plastic and/or metal interconnecting fuel rails. Note there was NO difference between the readings of either the metal or the plastic fuel rails nor between either set of carburetor bodies so we can assume that all 17,000 or so sets of CVK 30 carburetors will fall in the ranges I measured. Unless of course some ham fisted shade tree mechanic has been digging in the orifices!
Ok, so here are the results:
the metal and plastic fuel rails all had an OD of 5.8mm in the o-ring land/groove;
the carburetor bodies all had an ID of 9.0-9.05mm inthe fuel rail bore where the fuel rail o-ring contacts the bore; and
the vent bores all measured 8.8mm. I did not measure the plastic vent tee ODs as a leak here would be ingress of weather and not egress of fuel. I do however know that the o-rings having the part # of 100-1332 from z1enterprises.com work for the bowl vents. These o-rings measure 1.3mm WD X 5.7mm ID.
Back to the fuel rail o-rings;
I measured the o-rings I have in stock for the fuel rails and they measured 5.6mm (.220"), X 1.8mm (.070") with an overall OD of 9.2mm and they are a good snug fir around the fuel rail in the bore of the carburetor body. However IIRC they are NOT OEM so I can not in good conscience recommend using them. Do so at one's own risk.
McMaster-Carr, as an example only, stock a wide range of o-rings so if one was going to use their o-rings one would have to allow for the fact that none of the 1.8mm Wd rings has an ID of 5.6mm which when added together would give an overall OD of 9.2mm. McMaster's o-rings of .070 are only available with either a 5 or 6mm ID which coupled with 2X 1.8mm equals either 8.6 or 9.6mm.
So what does this all mean?
Well the wall thickness of 1.8mm is OK but if one chose the M-C 5mm ID then the overall OD is .6mm smaller than the o-ring I use and may leak. If one chose the M-C 6mm ID the the overall OD is 9.6mm which is .4mm larger than the rings I use so it would probably not leak but could be tight to get in and may be damaged during insertion into the carburetor fuel rail bore. But with a little silicone, NOT petroleum, brake grease the o-ring may fit OK and I suspect it would not leak.
What we need is for some member to accurately measure a new, unused OEM o-ring for the fuel rail and post the measurements. Unfortunately all of mine are not OEM nor can I recall where I found them. Once we have an exact OEM measurement then we could more accurately search for less expensive exact size alternative to the OEM o-rings.
Just be careful with non OEM o-rings as it is a real pain in the a^*%@ to have to redo a leak of the rail.
Dave

[Sci_]

Marvelous dissertation on fuel rail O-rings Dave. I ended up shoveling out $4.41 ea. at the dealership because I needed to get it back together. I didn’t want to take a chance on the wrong fit or wrong rubber because I don’t need any more practice taking the carbs off again.
Dan