Got a tech tip for Vulcan Voyager 1700's from your personal experiences, or one complete with pictures and instructions, here's where to post it. You can also ask about tips or procedures here.
I'm new to this group, and just acquired a 2012 Voyager that has been sitting for about a year. The clutch lever will not compress/squeeze/move. It hits what feels like solid resistance; no feeling of fluid compression what-so-ever. I'm thinking that crud or corrosion has affected it. The fluid does not look very clean, it's Amber colored with what looks like dark dust in the bottom of the reservoir.
Is it futile to try to take it apart and clean it out, or should I just replace it and move on??? And any recommendations on a good online outlet to purchase this part?
Thank you for any ideas/thoughts you may have!
Russ
Life is a collection of Moments...
May most of your moments be good ones, and the crap ones help you learn!
Before you begin, gather the following: A bottle of fresh DOT 4 brake fluid, some silicone tubing about 2ft in length. A glass jar, a wrench that fits the nipple valve where the clutch line runs into the engine. I am not sure where it is on the Vulcan but it will be where the line goes into the engine. Something like a welding torch cleaning tool. These can be gotten at Harbor Freight or any welding supply. Lots of old shop towels.
In order for the Clutch lever to work the ports and return ports at the bottom of the reservoir must be unblocked. First order of business is to drain the reservoir and the brake lines. Make absolutely sure you cover the bike so that any brake fluid will not spill on the bike. If that happens any plastic or paint will be ruined. Use the torch tool to gently clean out the ports inside the reservoir. try to pump the lever while gently clearing out the ports. Once cleared and the lever moves freely, refill the reservoir with fresh clear fluid. Open the valve at the engine and attach the tubing, run the tubing into the glass jar. After carefully filling the reservoir gently pump the fluid down the line until you see only clear fluid coming out no air bubbles. Close the valve, fill the reservoir to within an 1/8'' of the top and close and seal the lid. You should be done.
Not good news. Cleaned out the reservoir, no change, I could see the little plunger actually moving through the hole. Cracked open the bleeder valve and the lever moved fine. So I'm guessing either the clutch activation mechanism is stuck or the clutch is stuck.
Life is a collection of Moments...
May most of your moments be good ones, and the crap ones help you learn!
Redviking81 wrote:Not good news. Cleaned out the reservoir, no change, I could see the little plunger actually moving through the hole. Cracked open the bleeder valve and the lever moved fine. So I'm guessing either the clutch activation mechanism is stuck or the clutch is stuck.
I would next open up the crank case, clutch side and see if there is a broken clutch plate with the broken piece jamming the clutch. If you end up disassembling the plates be sure to count the friction plates and metal plates and how they went in so you can replace them the same way. I wish you luck. At least you now have clean brake fluid in the line. If the clutch plates aren't your problem it is dealership time.
I fixed it! Thank you guys for your help! It turned out to be the Slave cylinder. It was gunked up. Took it off, popped the piston out with a little compressed air.
Used a 3M abrasive pad to take off the grit on the piston and the bore and then cleaned it out with a combination of microfibre cloth, DOT4 fluid and compressed air. Put it back together and used the vacuum pump to help bleed the line and it worked!
It appears as though debris can make it's way into the area where the slave piston operates.
Thanks for the replies, I appreciated it!
Life is a collection of Moments...
May most of your moments be good ones, and the crap ones help you learn!
