Electrical issue
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- ted1r
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Electrical issue
Hi guys , my 1200 battery has just started to loose charge and wont start after couple of days
I have noticed when connecting up I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking is this normal?
Battery has tested ok and output is good when running.
Ant ideas please
Many thanks Nigel
I have noticed when connecting up I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking is this normal?
Battery has tested ok and output is good when running.
Ant ideas please
Many thanks Nigel
-
- King of the Road
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1958 Cushman Eagle restoration has been finished,and have put 4050 miles on her! - Location: Orrville,Ohio
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Re: Electrical issue
Hi,ted1r,My suggestion is to download a service manual ,then see if using that, you can find which relay is clicking,then find why.
Let us know what you find.

Let us know what you find.

- These users liked cushman eagle's post:
- ted1r (Mon Oct 02, 2023 10:51 am)
- Rating: 11.11%
'99 Voyager VXII,'58 Cushman Eagle
- ted1r
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Re: Electrical issue
Thanks for your input. I have a new battery this morning, I also have a work shop manual and tracked it to the fuel pump relay ,I found that if the kill switch is off it doesn't do it. So hopefully sorted.
Thanks Nigel
Thanks Nigel
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Re: Electrical issue
Nigel;
when connecting the battery to the system the only draw, with the ignition switch set to OFF of course, should be the radio/CB. Disconnect the radio/CB from it's/their 3 pin connector/s and see if there is still a draw upon connection.
The 1986 and 1987 models had internal circuitry wherein the fuel pump worked independent of/as well as with, the starter button when the key is first turned to the ON position and, IIRC, the clutch lever is engaged or first gear is selected. This 86/87 anomaly however does not show a voltage draw with the key in the OFF position nor would it be present on your '90 model.
This however does NOT explain a voltage draw upon connection of the battery provided nothing such as the trunk interior light, the ignition switch or any other device is/staying in the ON position with the key set to OFF; the connected radio being the exception as it always draws a minute amount of power.
As mentioned the radio/CB memory does require a power source to preserve it's settings and generally after a week, or two with a good battery, the charge will decrease to the point of being too discharged to rotate the starter motor. A 3/4-1 Amp battery tender is a must for non daily driver situations with these bikes, IMHO.
Be sure and check the trunk light using your cell phone set to photo/video and closing the lid.
Not sure if that helps or not,
Dave
when connecting the battery to the system the only draw, with the ignition switch set to OFF of course, should be the radio/CB. Disconnect the radio/CB from it's/their 3 pin connector/s and see if there is still a draw upon connection.
The 1986 and 1987 models had internal circuitry wherein the fuel pump worked independent of/as well as with, the starter button when the key is first turned to the ON position and, IIRC, the clutch lever is engaged or first gear is selected. This 86/87 anomaly however does not show a voltage draw with the key in the OFF position nor would it be present on your '90 model.
This however does NOT explain a voltage draw upon connection of the battery provided nothing such as the trunk interior light, the ignition switch or any other device is/staying in the ON position with the key set to OFF; the connected radio being the exception as it always draws a minute amount of power.
As mentioned the radio/CB memory does require a power source to preserve it's settings and generally after a week, or two with a good battery, the charge will decrease to the point of being too discharged to rotate the starter motor. A 3/4-1 Amp battery tender is a must for non daily driver situations with these bikes, IMHO.
Be sure and check the trunk light using your cell phone set to photo/video and closing the lid.
Not sure if that helps or not,
Dave
- ted1r
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Re: Electrical issue
Thanks for the reply ,I don't have any audio or CB fitted I,ll keep looking and checking ,but bike gets ridden fairly regularly .
Many thanks Nigel
Many thanks Nigel
- Nails
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Re: Electrical issue
God, I just LOVE electrical gremlins. Especially the intermittent kind.
--
Nails
Nails
- GrandpaDenny
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Re: Electrical issue
WETSU
We Eat This Stuff Up
NOT
Dennis Fariello
Philadelphia, PA
2000 Voyager XII "Gertrude" - deceased
1993 Vulcan 88 "Emily" - for sale $2000
2008 Ford CVPI "Myrtle"
VXII Manuals:
https://amervoyassoc.org/zg1200manuals.php
Philadelphia, PA
2000 Voyager XII "Gertrude" - deceased
1993 Vulcan 88 "Emily" - for sale $2000
2008 Ford CVPI "Myrtle"
VXII Manuals:
https://amervoyassoc.org/zg1200manuals.php
- SgtSlag
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Re: Electrical issue
I would suggest inserting an Ammeter between the Battery's (+) post and the red cable. Use one capable of 10 amps (up to 127 Watts of power flowing on a new, fully charged battery); make sure it has an inline fuse, and that it is digital, if possible. Do NOT hit the starter button!
This will show you how much Current is being drawn. It will help you determine how fast your battery is being drained. Again, this information will guide you in finding the fault:
Power (Watts) = Voltage x Amps
Light bulbs burn 2-55 Watts (with a 12.7 Volt battery: Marker Light = 2 Watts|0.16 Amps; OEM headlight on Hi-Beam = 55 Watts|4.33 Amps). It will also give you an idea how fast your battery will be drained. If your battery suffers a severe drain, repeatedly, it will be ruined, in a short time. You never want it to drain below 11 Volts, if possible, as that is a Deep Cycle, and these batteries are not designed for that -- it kills them.
If you look up the Amp-Hour Rating for your installed battery, it will give you an idea how long your battery will last with that draw, before it is dead. Divide the Amp-Hour Rating by the number of Amps being drawn:
21 Amp-Hours / 4.33 Amps (headlight on Hi Beam) = 4.9 hours until drained (in need of replacement battery, in all likelihood!)
*21 Amp-Hours / 1 Amp = 21 hours*
21 Amp-hours / 0.16 Amps (a single Marker Light on) = 131 hours
I believe the V-12's battery is rated around 21 Amp-hours, but it will vary depending upon the particular battery you have installed. Cheers!
This will show you how much Current is being drawn. It will help you determine how fast your battery is being drained. Again, this information will guide you in finding the fault:
Power (Watts) = Voltage x Amps
Light bulbs burn 2-55 Watts (with a 12.7 Volt battery: Marker Light = 2 Watts|0.16 Amps; OEM headlight on Hi-Beam = 55 Watts|4.33 Amps). It will also give you an idea how fast your battery will be drained. If your battery suffers a severe drain, repeatedly, it will be ruined, in a short time. You never want it to drain below 11 Volts, if possible, as that is a Deep Cycle, and these batteries are not designed for that -- it kills them.
If you look up the Amp-Hour Rating for your installed battery, it will give you an idea how long your battery will last with that draw, before it is dead. Divide the Amp-Hour Rating by the number of Amps being drawn:
21 Amp-Hours / 4.33 Amps (headlight on Hi Beam) = 4.9 hours until drained (in need of replacement battery, in all likelihood!)
*21 Amp-Hours / 1 Amp = 21 hours*
21 Amp-hours / 0.16 Amps (a single Marker Light on) = 131 hours
I believe the V-12's battery is rated around 21 Amp-hours, but it will vary depending upon the particular battery you have installed. Cheers!
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- cushman eagle (Thu Oct 05, 2023 7:37 pm)
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SgtSlag
1993 Voyager XII
1993 Voyager XII
- ted1r
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Re: Electrical issue
Thanks for the reply ,Its all sorted new battery cleaned electrical connectors too checked your readings and she's all fine
Many thanks Nigel
Ps I love the way you guys send great answers and info

Many thanks Nigel
Ps I love the way you guys send great answers and info
