Does anyone know what type plastic the Chrome side covers for the airbox is made of? I know all the black plastic is ABS and can be repaired with ABS glue, The plastic under the chrome is a whitish color. What can I glue it with?
Thanks,
Ken In FL
Chrome Airbox Cover
Moderators: the2knights, Highway Rider
-
SgtSlag
- King of the Road
- Posts: 1056
- Joined: Mon Oct 04, 2010 10:04 pm
- 14
- Current bike(s): 1993 Voyager XII (2010)
(2006-2012: 1979 Honda CB750K)
(2008-2010: 1983 Kawasaki 440LTD, belt drive) - Location: Minnesota
- Has liked: 23 times
- Been liked: 238 times
Re: Chrome Airbox Cover
There are many diverse types of plastic... I suggest some experimentation will be necessary.
The liquid Model Cement, is a solvent for some types of plastic. I would start with a small jar of that, the type with the brush in the cap. You will know if it works, quickly, as it will literally dissolve the surfaces of the plastic, welding it together as the solvent evaporates, within 15 minutes. Or not. If the plastic does not melt with it, then put it away. Not terribly expensive, available at most hobby stores.
After that, you can try ABS Pipe Glue: ABS plastic dissolved in acetone; the acetone evaporates leaving behind solidified ABS plastic. This can be found at every hardware store in the USA.
Failing those, you can try using JB Weld Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive, or J-B Weld Original Epoxy, Steel Reinforced Epoxy, High Strength. Both are two-part epoxies, requiring a good mixture to activate/cure them, over a period of hours.
I never recommend any form, or brand, of Super Glue: it has no sheer strength: twist the glued pieces, and they will sheer apart; try to pull them apart, without twisting, and they are solid with a very strong bond.
That's all I have to share. I hope something I recommended will work for you. Cheers!
PS:
Hot Glue works pretty well on HDPE plastic (Milk Jugs, plastic Army Men figures). It might be one of the better options to try on a bike's plastic parts. You can use either High Temperature, or Low Temperature Glue Sticks/Guns. The High Temperature Glue has a longer hardening time, and it flows much better than Low Temperature Glue, but either will work. You will want to rub the excess off, while it is still molten (HOT - Be Careful!!!), or let it harden fully, and then cut it off with a new razor blade. It will be challenging to achieve a good finish on the result, but it might work, if nothing else does. Cheers (2.0)!
The liquid Model Cement, is a solvent for some types of plastic. I would start with a small jar of that, the type with the brush in the cap. You will know if it works, quickly, as it will literally dissolve the surfaces of the plastic, welding it together as the solvent evaporates, within 15 minutes. Or not. If the plastic does not melt with it, then put it away. Not terribly expensive, available at most hobby stores.
After that, you can try ABS Pipe Glue: ABS plastic dissolved in acetone; the acetone evaporates leaving behind solidified ABS plastic. This can be found at every hardware store in the USA.
Failing those, you can try using JB Weld Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive, or J-B Weld Original Epoxy, Steel Reinforced Epoxy, High Strength. Both are two-part epoxies, requiring a good mixture to activate/cure them, over a period of hours.
I never recommend any form, or brand, of Super Glue: it has no sheer strength: twist the glued pieces, and they will sheer apart; try to pull them apart, without twisting, and they are solid with a very strong bond.
That's all I have to share. I hope something I recommended will work for you. Cheers!
PS:
Hot Glue works pretty well on HDPE plastic (Milk Jugs, plastic Army Men figures). It might be one of the better options to try on a bike's plastic parts. You can use either High Temperature, or Low Temperature Glue Sticks/Guns. The High Temperature Glue has a longer hardening time, and it flows much better than Low Temperature Glue, but either will work. You will want to rub the excess off, while it is still molten (HOT - Be Careful!!!), or let it harden fully, and then cut it off with a new razor blade. It will be challenging to achieve a good finish on the result, but it might work, if nothing else does. Cheers (2.0)!
SgtSlag
1993 Voyager XII
1993 Voyager XII