LED Light conversion

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

I have read the postings for the past year and even provided input at times concerning the differences between standard bulbs and LED lights. I am in the process of converting the rear fender painted lense into a running/brake light and would like to use LED bulbs.
My question is simple, some time ago I think I remember seeing somewhere that you shouldn't or couldn't simply switch the bulbs out for one another (can't remember why?). If this is true what do I need to do? I have printed the instructions off of Wyzard's FAQ's for the lense but don't want to get too far into it without knowing what my true finished product will be.
Any help or answers?
Or is this all for not and nothing to worry about, just start replacing bulbs and cut down on the total amperage usage to make room for more lights?

[customridr]

Scott,

If I remember correctly most LED bulbs emit their light straight out the back. This would render the reflector useless. I do seem to remember, though that there are LEDs that are configured to account for the reflector.

Jack

[Mailman Joe]

Scott, I think your talking about the problem with turn sigs. Flashing bulbs need load equalizers because the LEDs draw less amperage and won't trip the turn sig flasher. I've seen the equalizers at autozone with the LEDs and on different websites that carry LEDs. I haven't converted the turn sigs over yet, just the brakes and markers. I kinda lucked out, my 90 had a lower red lens on the fender, didn't have to remove paint or anything. I went to the Zone, bought 2 light sockets and 2 LED 1157R and tapped into the brake lights in the trunk, pretty easy job. Good luck.

[Charlie from Illinois]

I just replaced the bulbs. I have a new flasher for the turn signals but haven't gone that far yet. I did notice less of a pull on the system when I hit the brakes. There are many styles of LED bulbs out there.

[Rhinestone Kawboy]

Scott,

Although you can get load equalizers to have the LED turn signals work, I understand that kind of defeats the purpose of switching to LED's in the first place as it doesn't save you any current. A better solution would be to change out your turn signal relay to work with LEDs. I don't know what to recommend in this case, but if Dave Wirtz (Dave & Dot) sees this, he can chime in as I believe he switched out his relay and can tell you what he used. If he doesn't chime in soon, then you might want to PM him.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

customridr (Jack), yes I am aware of the light configuration on most LED's that's why I have long entertained the idea of bulbs that have 18 end lights and 6 radial to produce side light. That would provide for angles and help illuminate the light bucket/housing as well as emit light straight out the end.

Mailman Joe, now that you mention it I think that is what it was. The turn signals wouldn't operate normally or at all in some cases. I also want to remove the paint from the trunk brake light but that's more of a chore, for that I think adding a string of single LED bulbs in tiny holes drilled and glued would add or enhance the upper brake light. Just don't know if I want to place them staggered two rows, 1 up & 1 down, or one straight across the middle.
If I decide to do it I will most certainly post a picture for others to see what a monster I created if it doesn't work out the way I envisioned it. _____

[Rhinestone Kawboy]

Scott,

Keep in mind that if your trunk light was painted in the middle (unless someone replaced it with a stock '86 light), as it was if stock, even if you remove the outside paint, there is silver paint on the inside middle of the lens that needs removed before light will show through.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

Scott, Keep in mind that if your trunk light was painted in the middle (unless someone replaced it with a stock '86 light), as it was if stock, even if you remove the outside paint, there is silver paint on the inside middle of the lens that needs removed before light will show through.

Yes I know that there is instructions on how to use the oven to heat it slowly and separate the pieces carefully! But thanks for reminding me, I do tend to forget things.

[David (N. Alabama)]

Scott, I just added an LED light bar under the top trunk on the bike. I decided to have it only light up with the brakes so it would be more apparent to vehicles behind me that I was applying the brakes. It was $6 on ebay and stuck with 3m tape. A buddy following me said it works well in daylight also. On my red bike it is almost invisible when not in use.

[Chris near Kansas City]

Got my sockets from Autozone. Dont' have the number handy, sorry. You can print the pictures and take it with you.


Solder the ground wire to the socket, since it doesn't have one.


Cut notches in the housing for the tabs to lock into.


Cut the notches to fit the "V" shape of the tabs. Minor detail, but it'll bite a little more, and keep the sockets locked in a little better.


With the sockets in and wired up there is a bunch of wires....


....that have to fit in between the fender and the light housing. I complicated it even more by putting some connectors in there so I could remove the light assembly without having to cut wires.


You should have molded-in clips on the back of the fender that you can run the wires through. I heat shrinked the entire run of wires for more protection. Electrical tape, small convoluted tubing, etc. will work as well.


There is a rubber plug at the top of the fender. Cut a hole and run the wires through it. I used an aftermarket connector since the connector on my bike had been wacked off. So, I just got a matching male and female set.


The bulbs will not go through the holes in the housing. You have to put the sockets into the housing, then the bulbs into the sockets. One of the guys had mentioned a Honda bulb that fit the 1157 socket but had a small enough glass that it would pass through the housing's holes. Also, since the sockets are cheaply made, one of the first ones I got, had different length tabs than the other. They wouldn't go past the housing far enough for the tabs to "lock" into the plastic.

After running this setup for a long while, I switched the bulbs over to the 24 LED (18 + 6 radially mounted) for cooler operation, as well as, line the black plastic with foil for reflectivity. Did the same for my old trailer as well.






Chris

[Mike in Pekin , Il]

Here is what I did saves a lot of time and cost under 25 dollars:

[Mike in Pekin , Il]

That is a 15 inch 11 led braking I bought it from R and P carriages on ebay for 18.00 dollars he also sells a chrome bezel that dresses it up. I used a piece of 1/8th inch aluminium angle that I believe is 15-3/8 long. I used 1 inch spacers to mount the light to the bar and mounted the bar using the bottom trunk bolt. I have Duanes Trunk extender so you may have to look at how to mount it if you do not have one. I also mounted one to my Marvella's hitch rack and set it into a plug that I use on the trailer plug. THe cost for putting the on under hte trunk was right at $25/ Additionally I bought the turn signal conversions from electricalconnections.com. Those show up best in dawn and dusk.

[Rusty - SC Iowa]

Looks good Chris, but when do we get to see it lit up? By the way, I can have mine down there in three weeks so you can do the conversion on it.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

Hey Chris,
I was looking for a silver metalic spay for plastics but couldn't find one so I opted to go with gloss white. Figured if I sprayed the light bucket with that it would be better than just letting it black. Entertained the idea of foil tape but wasn't sure if the extreme cold temps would have an affect on the adhesive or not.

[Chris near Kansas City]

I used what I had: aluminum foil and black rtv silicone.

[Charlie from Illinois]

Our local Farm&Fleet has a spray that they call "Chrome". It isn't too bad if you keep it shook up. That is what I use on the trunk lights that I redo.

[Mailman Joe]

I seen the pic with the aluminum foil and said ...That's for me... went right out and brought the lens in and lined the bucket with foil while I watched the news. Came out nice and really lights up the lens now, thanks for the idea Chris.

[Rhinestone Kawboy]

Just for owners of older Voyagers, some of them came with this light enclosure in white plastic instead of black like it appears later models did. My 88's was white, and the light shows through quite well without having to paint or line with foil. Now if I could just find someplace around here that sold the LED replacement bulbs, I'd be set. I would rather buy them locally than order if I could to be sure I'm getting exactly what I want, and help the local economy.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

hey Gary,
our local AutoZone and Advanced Auto both carry the 1157 in LED as well as 3157 (push in style) LED replacements. It just takes a while of being cross-eyed looking at all the bulbs till you find them.

[Rhinestone Kawboy]

Unfortunately, I don't have a local Autozone, and the local Advance Auto has discontinued them . I always want something that no one seems to have when I want them. I hope my local Trader Horn doesn't stop getting rhinestones, or I'll be in trouble!