How to remove Cylinder #2 Spark Plug

[Rhinestone Kawboy]

What I did when I had that problem, was remove the two screws as you did, then I could flip the roundish thingy upside down or on it's side and that would move it enough out of the way. Since your plug wire came out, if it is mushroomed (probably is), cut just the mushroom part off, then screw the plug cap back on the wire. Yes, it's tight, but just work patiently at it and you should get it.

[richardb, austin]

I just went thru this. The #2 wire was so stiff from 16 years of heat exposure that I couldn't mount the wire in the boot and then put the boot onto the cap. Maybe if I could've mounted the boot onto the plug, THEN put the wire into the boot. I dont think that if the throttle cable roundy thingy had been more out of the way it would've made that much difference. Ultimately I replaced the plug wires. A Christmas gift of sparkplugs turned from a twenty minute (well, so I've heard) job into a 3 week nightmare. Boy new plug wire is really flexible.

[Mr Jensee]

I've mentioned it before, Harbor Freight has some large long neck hemostats ie surgical clamps that are great for getting into tight deep places like those spark plug wells.

[DaveC]

I couldn't get to H/F so I went to the local store and picked up a weed puller. Make sure it is at least 3/4 of an inch across.A i/2 inch just won't do, not enough metal to create the form.


I used a grinder to shape and a vise to hold. A one inch belt sander well work and if your real poor, a flat bugger (bad word filter changed this, usually refers to a fatherless male child) mill file does the job. Not as fast but it gets it done.



You need to reform it so it well turn about 75 degrees, caution the metal is low quality, mine cracked when trying to go to 90 degrees. If you have a torch then heat it up to aid in the process.


The spark plug caps have an indention or slot in them that allow a puller (factory tool) to pull them.

[ekap1200]

Nice tool Dave, ;Mac Tools; sells a boot removel tool for that job and I also use a ;Snap On; tool for windshields( for grabing cables and rubber boots on the relay tabs #1plug) that makes the whole job painless. All four plugs can be replaced in an hour without any fuss. The only delay would be If you don't have an air compressor to clean out around the plugs. My grandfather would tell me one grain of sand down the cyl is as bad as ten grains. More harm than good has come from changing plugs if you let dirt enter the combustion chamber. So if your not confident you can clean out the plug area its best left alone for someone else. Not getting anything down into the cyl is the most important part of this task. I have read many a horror story of the dreaded spark plug replacement job on various forums. So here are some pics for those of you that have never tackled this job. And also for those who are looking for an easier way. These pics are of #2 plug which is the trickyiest one. I usually don't use the tools from my bike's tool kit but honestly this bikes got the thumbs up for the spark plug socket supplied. At least for #2 and #3 plugs, I use an 11/16 spark plug socket for #1 & #4. Hope this helps someone out. Gene Kap.

[Ohio Mike]

Gene -
The red handle pliers - is that the Mac tool and do you know the part number or official name? Also, what is the hex shaft you are grabbing with the tool in the last couple pix?

Thanks,
Ohio Mike

[ekap1200]

Scott You got me there ! you figured out what I use that hook tool for. Works great on all the molded rubber relay mounts also ; to remove and install, expecially if you have big'oll hands. also hooks wires or ignition wires. Makes getting the plug wire up and around the cable box and on upward out of the way, as shown in the photo you imported in.
Mike : The red handle tool is the Mack-Tool, ( boot removel pliers-hemi head boot tool for those familiar with Mopar engines.) Don't have the part number, If you know of or just see a Tool truck at a repair shop, just walk on into it, with Cash . The hook tool is the Snap-on tool , (just ask for winshield tool and he'll show you whats in the catalog. And the shinny two part tool is the stock Kawi spark plug socket set that came with the bike, the hex in ,Inch's " is 11/16 ~ 17mm, it has the gripping boot in the bottom ( to grab the plug and a spring ball to hold them together) But; when installing the plug and removing the two part socket/extension: it comes appart. Again I use the boot puller , but grabing the lower part of the socket to remove it from the plug. Then I check if the wires are tight on the caps and presto,back to the hook tool to snake the wire back under the cable box and onto the plug until you hear the ;caps spring; contact the plug. Scott did you view the vidio of the bike idleing?
Anyway hope this helps finding these, tools. Even when I was younger I would use the hook tool for snaking things thru somewhere, you would be surprised how often its useful for. Also works well for older windshied mouldings on cars Gene from NJ

[Vdriveboater]

I just purchased my first "touring" bike, a '94 Voyager XII blue with 45K miles and really nice condition. I've owned an '01 ZRX1200R since '03 and am really impressed with the inline 4 engine, so I figured the Voyager would be a good one too. Does anyone have pics of how the "throttle cable contraption" directly over the plug can be moved out of the way to access the #2 plug for removal/replacement?

[triton28]

There are 2 of round head Phillips drive, (JIS actually), 6mm machine screws which secure the spring housing of the throttle cables to the underside of the battery box LH bottom bracket. Remove these 2 screws and the "contraption" can be moved around and more out of the way.
Dave

[Vdriveboater]

Thanks Triton, I'll investigate that. But I believe there's nothing securing the "contraption", other than throttle cables going in and cables going out. Me and the seller were able to move it around somewhat, but the cables prevent it from being moved enough to access the plug. I was hoping there was a simple way to remove either the input or output cables to allow more movement/access.

[GrandpaDenny]

There is not a simple way to remove those cables. You should be able to move the "contraption" over to the left enough to access the plug. Now bear in mind that plug is waaaaay down there, so you will need a pair of long spark plug wire pliers to get at it. You won't be able to get your hand down there. Best way to get the plug out after loosening it is with a magnet if it doesn't stick in the plug socket. Same for putting it back in.

[cushman eagle]

I have been able to move the connector box out of the way,after removing the screws,anough to change the number 2 plug.
Always keep in mind,Blow The Dirt out of the plug wells before removing the plugs

[Vdriveboater]

Thanks for the tips guys, I'm hoping to have some time to tackle this tomorrow or during the week, mixed in with lots of lawn to mow, tomatoes to plant (long story), mixing and spraying neem oil on new cucumbers, and other garden/outdoor necessities. I did buy four NGK Iridium plugs today, I heard they work well with our bike. The seller had to use starting fluid to get it going when cold, hopefully the plugs were a big cause of that. I'm pretty sure the carbs will need cleaning too.

[GrandpaDenny]

Blow The Dirt out of the plug wells before removing the plugs

Absolutely, definitely, positively! You'd be amazed at how much junk collects in there. Even if you don't see anything (Gertrude had all kinds of wierd and nasty things in there first time I changed her plugs) there is a LOT of dirt that collects in there.

[Nails]

In particular, oily sand. And the occasional abandoned metal sparkplug gasket.

These deep wells are supposed to drain out through tunnels (a charming notion) that run toward/beneath the carburetors. Degrease and blow these out, too. And mind your valve cover gaskets.

Merely "blowing out" might not get it.

And don't get me started on the difficulty running compression checks ... while the engine is still "warm".

This is a seriously crappy design. I've considered fabbing some sand covers like I've seen in other applications. (Adding to abundant evidence that I'm just another dust-blown rider.)

[Vdriveboater]

Successfully replaced all the plugs with the NGK Iridium type. By loosening the clamp on the left side coolant hose and rotating the clamp clockwise so that the screw was out of the way, along with removing the coolant hose that's on top and pushing it to the side, I was able to get the cruise control/throttle cable contraption up and out of the way enough to remove and replace the #2 plug.

[cushman eagle]

We are glad you got it done successfully
Congratulations

[Vdriveboater]

Thanks to everyone for your suggestions! Now I'm going to tackle the "extremely difficult" cold start issue (with a new post).