Self Cancelling Turn signals

[hissondk]

This topic has probably been covered in here somewhere, but I cannot find an answer yet. So. . . . here's question; my XII's self-cancelling turn signals don't cancel anymore. Could you's guide me in some areas to look. Thanks!

[vxiirider]

Try spraying the turn signal switch with electrical contact cleaner or WD 40 and working the switch back and forth to clean the contacts.

[biggersm]

The same thing happened to us but I consider loosing the self canceling feature to be a good thing (as long as the indicators lights in the dash still work). Who uses turn signals in Florida anyway?

Since you like that feature let's ask how is your speedometer, odometer, cruise control and automatic volume control (these features did not change for us when we lost the self canceling feature). It could be a speedometer cable about to go or the gear wheel down on the front wheel.

Other than that check all the fuses.

[ekap1200]

could be as easy as cleaning the plug at the canceling unit. after receiving the proper amount of pulses from the speedometer head the unit activates a solenoid and plunger to release the turn button. If your cruise/audio increase/and speedometer work that rules out the signal is not working, check the plug for corrosion, its a bit of time to get too. Then it would be either a bad cancel unit or the solenoid/ or wiring is the culprit. ekap1200

[Me Again]

Try spraying the turn signal switch with electrical contact cleaner or WD 40 and working the switch back and forth to clean the contacts.

.

I agree ,but,don't get carried away with the oil or you may find you cannot get it to stay on at all

[hissondk]

Thanks for the responses. Are you's suggesting taking the left switch assy. apart (some screws underneath, etc.) checking and lubricating the connections or just carefully spraying the outside of the switch?

[ekap1200]

Not me, before I would take it apart I would see if at the canceling unit I have power when the signal switch is activated left or right at the WHITE/RED wire. If the contacts in the switch are dirty work them left/right. Does the bike reside outside or in a garage ? Have you ridden allot in the rain? A 1994, chances are the plug to the canceling unit has never ever been pulled apart . Anyway that's where I would start, at the plug and from there test with a ohm-meter for continuity to the solenoid from the plug , and a ground signal from the reed switch in the speedo-head.

[Me Again]

Thanks for the responses. Are you's suggesting taking the left switch assy. apart (some screws underneath, etc.) checking and lubricating the connections or just carefully spraying the outside of the switch?

If I remember correctly the thumb knob covers the entire slot ,so you have to remove the knob (small screw under knob) .put a very small amount of your favorite penetrating oil in the slot,work it back and forth a couple of times ,then go for a ride and see if it works.
I agree with Ekap1200 that before you start taking it apart you should check to make sure it is electronically functional,although it is hard to test the shut off mechanism unless you turn the front wheel .
One way to check it (after checking the wires ) is to go for a ride ,turn the blinker on and put your thumb against the switch,you should be able to feel if is attempting to turn off.
Never start by taking something apart.

[Bill in Pgh]

Have a little experience with my '86 XII. To start with, is your battery fully charged - signals won't cancel with a low battery - sometimes this is your first tip that your charging system is faulty. The next thing is to split the control assembly on the left handlebar - have your contact cleaner ready with the red tube attached and spray the turn-signal-switch with the cleaner and then put back together; work the switch a couple times, then start bike and test. This worked for me a couple years ago and I didn't use any lubricant (i.e. WD-40) and its still working to this day. Good luck and "enjoy the ride".

[Ohio Mike]

Is there one solenoid that gets fired to cancel the signal or two? My left signal self cancels MOST of the time but the right signal has NEVER canceled since I bought the bike used about 15k miles ago. If all the work is done by a single solenoid, I would think the right signal would cancel at least once in a while. Previous owner painted the bike so it may have been torn completely down. Maybe they broke something on the reinstall?

Thanks,
Ohio Mike

[metric]

Last week I lost the "self canceling turn signal" too and I think it's a good thing, I usual signal two times because
was so short so now I just have to remember to switch off after the turn...

[Chris near Kansas City]

Yep. Mine quit too. Pretty sure it died on the way back from Degray Lake. I couldn't be happier. Sort of.

[suzib6sw]

Another possible reason.. the signal from the speed sensor is not getting to the SC unit.. Easily diagnosed as the Radio volume will not adjust automatically with speed increase/decrease and Cruise Control (Post 86) will not engage correctly.
If the pickup is working but not sending 4 pulses per rev, then the time for the SC unit to work and the speed range and volume speed adjust will all be off too ..

Normally, Ide check the solenoid and spray with WD first..

THEN pull the headlight, look at the radio for the blue and yellow pair of wires, pull the connector and look for 8 volts at both ends..

Pete

[Muleears]

Another possible reason.. the signal from the speed sensor is not getting to the SC unit.. Easily diagnosed as the Radio volume will not adjust automatically with speed increase/decrease and Cruise Control (Post 86) will not engage correctly.
If the pickup is working but not sending 4 pulses per rev, then the time for the SC unit to work and the speed range and volume speed adjust will all be off too ..

Normally, Ide check the solenoid and spray with WD first..

THEN pull the headlight, look at the radio for the blue and yellow pair of wires, pull the connector and look for 8 volts at both ends..

Pete

I hate to resurrect an ancient thread but I now have a problem with my self canceling signals. They had worked most of the time but I wasn't happy with "most" I wanted all! So in doing my due diligence I found this thread. I promptly split the control on the handlebar and sprayed the switch with WD40 and worked it several times. Well, now I have it all.... They DON'T work at ALL! My volume works properly, didn't try the cruise though. I don't know what I did but obviously it was something... I should clarify, the turn signals work properly, they just don't cancel at all. Its getting dark so any further repair attempts will have to wait for daylight but what could I have done? I'm sure I put it back together correctly. I didn't have any contact cleaner or dielectric grease. I'll get some tomorrow and give that a try. Failing that, I could take the contact out and buff it with a little fine sandpaper and reassemble. Anyone have any suggestions??? This is what I get for trying to solve my own problems... more problems

[SgtSlag]

Electronic contact cleaner leaves behind zero deposits. It used to be called, Tuner Cleaner, used on TV tuner switches. It should remove the WD-40 residue, while leaving everything squeaky clean, no residue.

I would not recommend disassembly of the switch, nor sanding the contacts. They are quite small, delicate, and challenging to work with. It is not like you can pick up a replacement easily, or cheaply. Try the Contact Cleaner, first, and be patient. Soak it, work the switch back and forth, to ensure the contacts are rubbed while wet with cleaner. Best of luck -- I will be pursuing this soon, same issue, didn't know how to fix, until now. Cheers!

[Muleears]

Thanks SgtSlag. I will give that a try.

[ekap1200]

If your turn signals are flashing its not the switch contacts. That is totally seperate from the cancel circuit. The cancel circuit is a soleniod plunger that releases the switch. Controled by the turn signal cancel module and could be just a bad connection at that units plug or an open in the soleniod coil. Or an open in the wiring or bad module. Or the plunger is sticking, which since you said it occasionally works is the most likely.

[Muleears]

Or the plunger is sticking, which since you said it occasionally works is the most likely.

Gene,
They were occasionally canceling before I "fixed" them. Now they flash but must be manually canceled. Is all of this inside the handlebar switch mount assembly? Or need I look elsewhere too? Thanks Gene.

[chevyman1]

You have to take the switch apart and clean out all the dirt and grime then put some dielectric grease on it and it should work better then new.
Be careful when you take it apart the parts are small but you should not have a problem.

[Muleears]

You have to take the switch apart and clean out all the dirt and grime then put some dielectric grease on it and it should work better then new.
Be careful when you take it apart the parts are small but you should not have a problem.

Thanks Chevyman1, I didn't see any grime the first time I had it apart, maybe I didn't go far enough. If I have time I'll take a look today.