Thread almost gone on forward oil drain bolt hole

[carl leo]

please please! let me be a fly on the wall....

[Steve do]

I agree with Carl, interesting to know if there is going to be audio, I'm sure the conversation will be interesting. Does anyone know if there is a video that shows how to pull the drive shaft, I need to replace some of the O rings. A little drip comes out of the rubber boot when I ride at high speeds 70 to 80. The rear oil level is correct, maybe I should start another post. Thanks

Good luck with this!!

Steve

[Jim Loiselle]

Well it is nothing but bad news from KC! After removing the oil pan on the Road Toad (1986 Voyager) a large chunk of metal was found in the pan! Chris took a picture and sent it to Carl, who confirmed it was part of the timing chain. So I said my goodbys and called it a day! I rented a car and returned to Indy.

Picture show will follow tonight!

Jim

Thanks again to Rick and Chris for all their hard work!

[Jim Loiselle]

Here is the Picture show of the last days of the Road Toad.

http://www.photoshow.com/watch/MN6pK3MJ

Jim

[JHD]

Can't go wrong replacing bad parts with new ones. You will sleep better now that your wallet is a bit lighter and your oil pan is the way it should be. There is a bypass tube in your oil pan, it has 4 o-rings, two of mine were bad when I had things apart recently. I replaced the two bad ones and Carl mentioned that they are important for the system to work properly. Be sure to check yours when you have things apart and also clean the screen that is attached to the pipe.

[Lucasind]

Here is the Picture show of the last days of the Road Toad.

http://www.photoshow.com/watch/MN6pK3MJ

Jim

What is the odometer reading on the "road toad".......Does "last days" mean that your parting it out ?.............................tony

[doug of so fla]

Jim: Could that be a piece that someone did not get out from the original chain replacement and the one in there is still good? Just thinking out of the box, Stranger things have happened. sorry for your loss...

[JHD]

Well obviously my earlier post was a day late and a dollar short as I responded to your last post on the first page and not realizing I wasn't on this page. Well Jim I am truly sorry to see things went south for you. Well the easiest thing to do would be to put a used low mile motor in the bike. That does sounds funny because it isn't that easy, but I just took mine out and reinstalled it by myself. Seems in your case with a few extra set of hands helping, you could probably have it yanked out and reinstalled in a weekend. Mine took a day to get out and a day to get in and another day to finish it up with a whole bunch of days cleaning, sanding, painting, detailing and repairing in between. Hey what can I say, I'm a busy guy with two hands.

Hopefully you are able to repair your great looking trike Jim.

Brad

[Jim Loiselle]

I have given the Road Toad to Rick near KC. He and Chris are now in charge and the mileage is less the 50K.

I am selling the Voyager Trike Kit for $800.00 OBO
to get it out of Rick's driveway in near KC.

Jim

[jre258 in SoDak]

Jim, if you are still interested in staying on a XII Voyager, here is a link to an '01 in Sioux Falls, SD: http://www.powerbrokersinc.com/Preowned ... 07-2706411
(Standard disclaimer: I am no way associated or have any interest in the above business.)

You have my condolences on the passing of the Road Toad.
Jim

[ekap1200]

Jim, sorry to hear the bad news , we were hoping to see the road toad this year at the rally.
Marie and I offer our condolences on the passing of the Road Toad. Hope to see you on some form of two or three wheeler this year. Gene and Marie

[joemaniaci]

Can't go wrong replacing bad parts with new ones. You will sleep better now that your wallet is a bit lighter and your oil pan is the way it should be. There is a bypass tube in your oil pan, it has 4 o-rings, two of mine were bad when I had things apart recently. I replaced the two bad ones and Carl mentioned that they are important for the system to work properly. Be sure to check yours when you have things apart and also clean the screen that is attached to the pipe.

I don't see four o-rings in the assembly diagram for the oil pain. I only see the main gasket and the large o-ring. Mine is a 98 if that makes a difference.

Sorry about the road toad.

[JHD]

Can't go wrong replacing bad parts with new ones. You will sleep better now that your wallet is a bit lighter and your oil pan is the way it should be. There is a bypass tube in your oil pan, it has 4 o-rings, two of mine were bad when I had things apart recently. I replaced the two bad ones and Carl mentioned that they are important for the system to work properly. Be sure to check yours when you have things apart and also clean the screen that is attached to the pipe.

I don't see four o-rings in the assembly diagram for the oil pain. I only see the main gasket and the large o-ring. Mine is a 98 if that makes a difference.

Sorry about the road toad.

So Joe the o-rings are part of the main gallery pipe/crossover tube that is "I" shaped (32033 crankcase parts diagram) that the orange plastic screen clamps onto. There are 2 o-rings at each end of the pipe. Just spoke with Carl about your problem with your motor. I just repaired mine, pulled the motor, split the case and installed the new tensioner assembly. About $200 in parts. You could definitely do this and have that great looking trike back on the road. With those low miles on that motor it just getting broke in.

[joemaniaci]

Can't go wrong replacing bad parts with new ones. You will sleep better now that your wallet is a bit lighter and your oil pan is the way it should be. There is a bypass tube in your oil pan, it has 4 o-rings, two of mine were bad when I had things apart recently. I replaced the two bad ones and Carl mentioned that they are important for the system to work properly. Be sure to check yours when you have things apart and also clean the screen that is attached to the pipe.

I don't see four o-rings in the assembly diagram for the oil pain. I only see the main gasket and the large o-ring. Mine is a 98 if that makes a difference.

Sorry about the road toad.

So Joe the o-rings are part of the main gallery pipe/crossover tube that is "I" shaped (32033 crankcase parts diagram) that the orange plastic screen clamps onto. There are 2 o-rings at each end of the pipe. Just spoke with Carl about your problem with your motor. I just repaired mine, pulled the motor, split the case and installed the new tensioner assembly. About $200 in parts. You could definitely do this and have that great looking trike back on the road. With those low miles on that motor it just getting broke in.

Hey Carl, do you think if I buy four 16mm O-rings from Ace or something that'll work? Mind you this bike doesn't even have 15k miles on it, so I am sure they'll more than likely be in perfect condition.

[JHD]

Can't go wrong replacing bad parts with new ones. You will sleep better now that your wallet is a bit lighter and your oil pan is the way it should be. There is a bypass tube in your oil pan, it has 4 o-rings, two of mine were bad when I had things apart recently. I replaced the two bad ones and Carl mentioned that they are important for the system to work properly. Be sure to check yours when you have things apart and also clean the screen that is attached to the pipe.

I don't see four o-rings in the assembly diagram for the oil pain. I only see the main gasket and the large o-ring. Mine is a 98 if that makes a difference.

Sorry about the road toad.

So Joe the o-rings are part of the main gallery pipe/crossover tube that is "I" shaped (32033 crankcase parts diagram) that the orange plastic screen clamps onto. There are 2 o-rings at each end of the pipe. Just spoke with Carl about your problem with your motor. I just repaired mine, pulled the motor, split the case and installed the new tensioner assembly. About $200 in parts. You could definitely do this and have that great looking trike back on the road. With those low miles on that motor it just getting broke in.

Hey Carl, do you think if I buy four 16mm O-rings from Ace or something that'll work? Mind you this bike doesn't even have 15k miles on it, so I am sure they'll more than likely be in perfect condition.

Joe I haven't been paying good attention to this thread, I now see you and Jim were doing the same thing. So disregard my comment about the starter chain tensioner that was meant for Jim. Now about those o-rings, only replace them if they are damaged. Mine had some hacks on the edges of two of them so I replaced them with the factory ones. Maybe yours are fine. Should be able to match them up at a NAPA if you do need some and don't want to wait for oem.

[joemaniaci]

Yeh they were fine.

That black flimsy plastic tubehanging near the oil filter wasn't the pickup tube was it? Seems kind of flimsy and dependent on you making sure the tab on the side of it rested just right on a chunk of aluminum next to where the oil filter slides up into.

It kept wanting to fall out and I have no real way of knowing if I got it to rest on the oil pan just right.

EDIT: its the tube breather part on the crankcase diagram.