What Would You Do For a Leaking Gear Balancer Shaft Sealed Bearing?

[Barry]

After 35 years in Washington State, retired & moved to Nampa Idaho. Wish we'd moved away from the insanity sooner. So glad to be further away from Seattle & Portland. You're only 637 miles away LOL

[joelcolletti]

... Yea, I thought I remembered you being up in WA. So glad to hear you're in Id, as I'm very fond of the wide open valleys and countryside you have up there. True Beauty. ...637 miles- I think that's closer than when you were North of us.

[joelcolletti]

With out pulling the dogbones to find out if the outside diameter of the seals are visible from out side the engine,I cannot know for sure,but if they are visible you can do what we do many times with farm equipment.
We find a small drill bit that can fit between the shaft and housing,[in this place,the engine case]drill a small hole through the seal,screw in a wood screw,and pry the screw,and seal out.
We have done this many times in our farm repair shop.

I should add.use a small enough bit,so the screw does not contact the shaft or housing.
When installing the new seal,make sure the lip of the seal goes over the shaft without folding in,and I use blue loctite to seal and retain the outside of the seal.

Thanks So Much Cushman Eagle. I think that is going to be helpful going forward, Carl mentioned something about a mod using a screwdriver bent into a hook shape. I've seen some You Tube vids make it look easy.

[HMB Don]

Joel
Good too hear you've got info you need from Carl. I sure wish I was in HMB we could complete the job in no time. Also have a big cup of coffee.

Carl, must have been smiling when he said to change from synthetic oil.

[Barry]

I wonder if one of these would pull the seals?
https://www.harborfreight.com/mini-pick ... ugg_q=pick

[Barry]

Joel, I got in touch with Bill O and asked him to repost his instructions for replacing the balancer shaft seals. Here's his response: Barry, can't remember when I posted that, but removing the old seal just requires a sharp tool like a small scribe or screwdriver to grab the seal. You will need to remove the bolt for the oil line in front of the bone bar to remove the bone out of the way, then access for removing the seals is clear. After pulling the seals out, just use an appropriate size socket as a tool to seat the new seals. They go in really easy. Just need to bottom them in, then replace the bone over the shafts, tighten, and reinstall the oil line bolt that was removed for access. If you have moved the shafts, you will need to perform the procedures for the counter balance adjustments. Also, easy if you follow the instructions in the Basic Manual.

[joelcolletti]

... to quote a famous ol' philosopher, GBG, opinions are like belly buttons,
we all have one!!! GBG ... yeah, I heard it the other way too!!!!

You got some great news!!! I have never heard a valid knock on
synthetic oil, and I bow to his wisdom!!!!!! ... and still use Mobil 1...

IIRC, isn't this a 10x40 machine?

As to taping the window, I've got 80+K on my sweet Gina and she
has yet to use a drop...

I don't remember where you will be working on the scoot, might you just
drop'er on the crash bars for easier access? Would that help or make
worse any oil leak ?.. ? Will you work on the center stand?

Would you change it after to get any crud out of the old oil
you might drop in?

Very Best to Ya!!!!! Onward.......

You gave me somethings to think about:

I'll probably be working on it on the cement drive or in the cramped garage, now that the weather is turning cold. I have some time to spare quarantining these last 10 months, so I can't make any excuses. I took the diaper off yesterday, and it wasn't too badly leaking since my last post.

I like the idea of putting the bike at an angle to keep the shaft from moving around, but after giving it further though, thinking's the center stand is probably how I'll wind up doing it. Got some break cleaner, and will prep her first before getting in there.

I'm thinking the order of operation should be:Clean her up > Drop oil from both plugs> pull seal /maybe both while I'm at it since I ordered two > replace oil :0)

Barry sent a link for some good looking picks, and after watching a You Tube how to replace a shifter seal replacement similar to this task, it looks easier than I could expect. I'll post when I get 'er done.

I was just getting ready to order some conventional motor oil and some conventional brake fluid, as my clutch and brakes seem to get gummed up when its been sitting for long periods with being ridden, so will flush the lines while I at it too. THANKS FOR THE 10/40W info- as I've been going 10-40W Castro Power RS synthetic the past 5 to 10 years. I like how noticeably smoother the bike shifts on the synthetic.

Hoping All and Everybody is Well, and getting through this crazy / scary time.

Thanks again :0)

Have a Happy Thanksgiving.

[joelcolletti]

Joel, I got in touch with Bill O and asked him to repost his instructions for replacing the balancer shaft seals. Here's his response: Barry, can't remember when I posted that, but removing the old seal just requires a sharp tool like a small scribe or screwdriver to grab the seal. You will need to remove the bolt for the oil line in front of the bone bar to remove the bone out of the way, then access for removing the seals is clear. After pulling the seals out, just use an appropriate size socket as a tool to seat the new seals. They go in really easy. Just need to bottom them in, then replace the bone over the shafts, tighten, and reinstall the oil line bolt that was removed for access. If you have moved the shafts, you will need to perform the procedures for the counter balance adjustments. Also, easy if you follow the instructions in the Basic Manual.

Thanks Barry: Those look like they'll get the job done nicely. I'll post again after completion.

Hoping all is Well in your neck of the woods.

Happy Thanksgiving!

[joelcolletti]

Joel
Good too hear you've got info you need from Carl. I sure wish I was in HMB we could complete the job in no time. Also have a big cup of coffee.

Carl, must have been smiling when he said to change from synthetic oil.

Got your message; and just getting around to having some time to work on the bike, as things have been busy especially with all that is going on. I'll post again when I get into the project. I have the seals, just need to order some fluids and picks. I'm looking forward to getting back in the saddle again; and break out the cold weather gear.

Noticed that You're "Pioneer" level is there anything higher than that?

Hoping All is Well with You Both.

Happy Thanksgiving

[joelcolletti]

Well, I survived Covid 19 last year, and it hard to believe that a whole year has gone since posting about my gear balancer seal leak.

I sure do appreciate all the terrific info from my friends at AVA, and NorCal Voyagers too. I finally took my ride out of the garage this Saturday, and am ready to roll again; maybe into Az in 2022.

The bike fired right up after sitting on the tender for a year, and adding fuel stabilizer back then, but; and it had two back fires, and hoping I didn't blow a hole in a piston head. I've seen some piston heads, and they are pretty beefy, so I'm not too worried about that so much as that the bike is coming up on 30 years or age.

Well, I found I did a silly thing after completing the repair this Saturday, then checked for leak/s in the evening, and there was one drop on the banjo: I put both copper gaskets on the head of the banjo bolt, when I loosened the bolt to loosen up the oil pipe. Of course I had to notice that after I put the fluid in. Well, I don't think that's going to be too difficult for me to correct. I ordered some copper gaskets, arriving on Monday, so next time I drain the oil, which could be this week again, I'll go ahead and change out all of those banjo and oil plug copper sealing gaskets /washers while I'm at it.

HMB Don was spot on as usual: It took no time at all to coax the old seal out. I would have liked it better if the seal was marked for direction, so I looked at the seal opposite, and Kawi has the flat side facing in and the ribbed facing out. I haven't started up the bike, so there's no pressure built up in the motor, so I'm going to challenge myself to get that bolt and washer off in lighting speed and minimize the oil gushing out.

Next, I need to get my chrome done, because this ocean living is tough on metal, but everything else is holding up mechanically that I can tell. Plus, I discovered Fluid Film, and I think this product may add years to all the metal around our home and on the bike and autos too.

In any event, our Summer is just kicking in here on the coast, but once again the air has been filled with smoke from all the wildfires happening here on the west coast in 4 or more states. Maybe I'll be able to make it to AZ for the Rally in 2022- from the fire to the frying pan :0) though I can see the 27 years, I've had this machine, beginning to show its age - like its owner.

Hoping all is Well, and You are having a terrific summer on your machines and otherwise. Thanks for finding my post and responding in kind.


Update: 08/04/2021:

The oil pipe banjo repair is completed and is staying dry to the bone; and so is the new gear balancer seal: It was a piece of cake. I even got to torking the lower end while I was down down there. It honestly sounds like its purring, I think the bike likes the Shell Rotella a lot - Thank you Carl Leo. :0) I've been running Castrol RS racing full synthetic 10-40 for the past 10 years or more, and really like the way the gear box responds with it too. I still have enough Castrol for another oil change if the Rotella feels wonky. I'll make time to run through the gear box this weekend, and compare oils, since I'm new to this Shell Rotella conventional. I think this conventional oil might be kinder to the internal workings and seals too.

The balancer seal seated itself so easily, I was concerned that oil would push out, but it doesn't. I'm so happy, and will get the cycle out for a joy ride after my Odyssey PC680 gets here on Thursday.

Now,I'm getting ready to swap out my old Scorpio cycle alarm, from the mid 90s, and updating to their newer series that looks so sweet. I'm hoping my harness will be interchangeable, as Scorpio says there's a good chance it will. I have to find the brain, and see if the connectors are the same. Not having to pay for labor should save me the cost of their system I'm keeping my fingers crossed, and hope while Im replacing the battery, I'll be able to locate the alarm module, as it was installed at shop that went kaput.

Looking forward to getting back out there