Hi from thhe UK

[ted1r]

Hi ,thank for that information.
I now have a bigger problem, went for a breakfast run this morning

We made the Steel for the bridge

But returning home the top end on my Voyager became rattly, changed the oil it was spotless no metal bits do you guys have any ideas please.

Nigel

[Nails]

The first thing that jumps up in my mind: I recommend removing/cleaning the cam chain tensioner. (And also using a wire or something to clear the drains for the sparkplug wells that exit nearby.)

Probably irrelevant, but the fairing can funnel noises upward. In particular, the front fender can make a rattle that sounds like a loose fairing. (Which might be true anyway.) Also, there are a couple frame bolts that usually come loose. They're on the right side of the frame under the fake tank, designed to remove a section of the frame to allow engine removal.

[ted1r]

Thanks Nails Ill go for the tensioner first and the drains ,its definably mechanical noise ,all I hope its not too exspensive

Nigel

[Nails]

Easy to remove and clean. It's one of the kind that uses a paperclip to hold the ratcheting tensioner against a spring during installation.

[GrandpaDenny]

Rattling noises after an oil change are usually due to overfilling. 3 qts. 22 oz. with a new filter. No more. Don't believe the sight glass.

[ted1r]

Thanks all ,does the cam cover come off in situ?

Nigel

[triton28]

Nigel;
top end mechanical noises are banshees that are hard to find and solve BUT, it generally is NOT the cam chain tensioner. It usually is an oil overfill condition as Grandpa Denny has stated which causes the lubricating oil to foam and air gets into one or more of the hydraulic lash adjusters.
Another cause normally is dirty oil in the lash adjusters due to prior owner practices. This can also cause tapping valve clatter noises and can sometimes be cleared up by using the formula provided by Neal:

Post by Neal » Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:11 pm
I'ee that would have been me posting what Kawasaki told me to do with my 2001 when I got that lifter clatter.
Use 1 qt. atf -(any) with 2 qt.s (cheap) 10/30 oil. Run at regular driving speeds for up to about 1,000 miles. Then change back to your regular oil. Did that and never heard it again.
Credit to Neal for the posting. I have never tried it so I can not attest to the thoroughness of it but others have stated that it works.

The cam chain adjuster is very tricky to reinstall once removed and should only be removed as a LAST resort, see Motorcycle Service Manual chapter 4 page 19. It does NOT require a paper clip as does the secondary chain tensioner, see MSM chapter 8 page 19, but rather uses a small bladed screwdriver and the problem is that there is inadequate space to easily perform the installation with the engine in the frame. Go to the archives and look up my post "Cam chain tensioner photos of Friday May 21 2021@ 7:10pm in the General-Voyager XII section for more tensioner info. Do not attempt this R&R unless one has read all the available info on the tensioner and the R&R procedure as this info is absolutely necessary.
The top cylinder head cover can be removed in situ but it is a VERY difficult operation to reinstall it- far better to R&R the engine to do it.
And sometimes the lash adjusters just clear themselves out and the noise disappears. Hopefully that will be the case here,
keep us posted.
Dave

[Nails]

Okay, I meant the secondary chain tensioner. I haven't seen the primary one.
And yes, the valve covers can be removed in situ, but it's a bit difficult especially to avoid screwing up the gaskets.

[ted1r]

Hi Guys and many thanks for all the info I am going to do all what you have said ,just stripping down at moment ,How many parts I used to stip a Z 1000 completely in 2 hours its taken 2 days so far

Nigel

[ted1r]

Right guys got my oils so going ahead with your great suggestions , I presume that your quoted measurement are US pints ? quarts etc as the UK are different .

I will report back ,Cheers

[triton28]

If you are referring to the cleaning solution proposed by Neal contained in my post I would have to assume that it is in U.S. measure. Also please note my caveat regarding whether or not it works.
Should I was to try the formula I would completely drain the oil and change the filter then I would add 2 US quarts and 11 ounces of oil along with 1 US quart of ATF. That is 11 fluid ounces less than the MSM recommended volume of oil but 11 ounces more than the formula outlined in Neal's post.
22 ounces under the MSM recommended volume seems a little low to me so I would add the 11 ounces to Neal's formula just to be safe and also still provide some space for any possible foaming which may occur.
1 US quart is 32 fluid ounces and 1 Imperial quart is 40 fluid ounces.
But, that's just my take on things,
Dave

[GrandpaDenny]

Right guys got my oils so going ahead with your great suggestions , I presume that your quoted measurement are US pints ? quarts etc as the UK are different .

I will report back ,Cheers

Yes, US quarts. Two ounces shy of three Imperial quarts, I believe. 118 ounces.

Don't put ATF in your crankcase. It's hydraulic fluid, not lubricating oil.

[ted1r]

Ther was the noise,cam chain sprocket bolts on the ex cam were loose and catching the casing
Zoom in to middie

But I cannot thank you enough for your support and guidance and advice along this path.

Thanks Nigel

[ted1r]

So now 2 or 3 oil changes make sure any bits are removed

Nigel

[Nails]

Nice catch.

[ted1r]

Thanks

Nigel

[ted1r]

Just got him back running and its all good now ,Maybe a bit quieter than before the troubles,

Nigel