air horn, led headlight, oil sensor installs.

[4redjf]

new to the forum. recently got a 96 Voyager xii. wanted to add the wolo air horn and use the factory horn button. Of course, install the relay. But i see that the R side horn has power on both wires at the horn and left side has power at one side, till the key is on, and then both of them are hot. How to use the horn button with existing horn wiring is my issue.
2nd thing is i changed out the headlight to led bulb. now the RLU causes the headlight warning light to come on. So i unplugged the RLU relay. Didnt notice the changing to high beam but the light still comes on. How do i remedy this issue? I like to keep the LED headlight.
3rd thing changing the oil sending sensor since it appears to be leaking a drop of oil. Does installing a new oil sensor require anything on its threads, looks tapered so no crush ring, and if i am fast enough will i be able to replace it without loosing too much oil?
Appreciate any advice from those who have had these issues and solved them.
Thanks, Jeff

[Nails]

new to the forum.

You're asking technical questions in the General Chat section for all Voyagers. You want to hit Home -> pick an XII forum. You're apparently not an AVA member, but there's lots of tech stuff in the "General" section. Consider stopping at the "New owners of Voyager XII (1 of 2)". Note the reference to the Tech section.

I know there are posts about the "reserve lighting unit". But I also know that I'm too lazy to find the ones I used when I put in an "LED headlight bulb". But I'm confident you'll get lots of hits searching on those ... or something like them.

Welcome aboard. You'll find a lot of info here. You might even want to throw the modest membership cost our way.

[4redjf]

Thanks, i'm trying to navigate this system. I just joined with paying the dues and trying to get to where i post technical questions. I was with Goldwing for many years and now i'm back to Kawasaki.
How do i take my one post and repost it in the tech area?
appreciate your help on this.

[triton28]

Jeff;
Not to worry about the wrong forum, I suspect most of us have done it when beginning a new membership. Next time you can post in the appropriate forum but for now lets see if we can shed some light on your questions here.
Brown wire to horns is 12V at all times when key is ON. Black/White wire completes the closed circuit only when the horn button is pressed.
Be careful though if you are going to utilize the Bk/W wire for any horn relay circuitry as it is used in 3 and maybe 4 separate uses in the harness. Be sure you have the correct Bk/W wire.
Remove/disconnect the Light green/Red brass terminal from the white plastic connector of the RLU and tape it up so it does not short out to ground anytime as it is live 12V. This cancels the power to the dash warning light when a H/L bulb with less than 50/65 watts is used and the dash warning bulb of the RLU wants to illuminate. With this wire disconnected both high and low functions of the H/L bulb will work as normal, but you will not have any dash warning if the low beam ceases to function.
The pressure sensor can be quickly changed without draining the oil BUT as to any leakage, that would be unknown as the correct installation utilizes silicone sealant on the sensor threads. I drain the oil, wait a few minutes for residual drainage, and then clean the internal threads with a lint free cloth wetted down with Brake Clean wrapped around a small round item. After letting everything evaporate/dry I then install the sensor with the sealant on the sensor threads and refill the oil. But, that is just me. It may well be OK and leakproof to change it in the manner you are asking about, I haven't done it that way. Just be sure to catch any oil and replace that amount after you are done and check for leaks.
That post "New owners of Voyager XII" which Nails referenced is a great source of knowledge and valuable info and should not be overlooked/missed.
Also I have included a photo of the tool which makes removal of the brass terminal so easy.
Have fun,
Dave

[4redjf]

Jeff;
Not to worry about the wrong forum, I suspect most of us have done it when beginning a new membership. Next time you can post in the appropriate forum but for now lets see if we can shed some light on your questions here.
Brown wire to horns is 12V at all times when key is ON. Black/White wire completes the closed circuit only when the horn button is pressed.
Be careful though if you are going to utilize the Bk/W wire for any horn relay circuitry as it is used in 3 and maybe 4 separate uses in the harness. Be sure you have the correct Bk/W wire.
Remove/disconnect the Light green/Red brass terminal from the white plastic connector of the RLU and tape it up so it does not short out to ground anytime as it is live 12V. This cancels the power to the dash warning light when a H/L bulb with less than 50/65 watts is used and the dash warning bulb of the RLU wants to illuminate. With this wire disconnected both high and low functions of the H/L bulb will work as normal, but you will not have any dash warning if the low beam ceases to function.
The pressure sensor can be quickly changed without draining the oil BUT as to any leakage, that would be unknown as the correct installation utilizes silicone sealant on the sensor threads. I drain the oil, wait a few minutes for residual drainage, and then clean the internal threads with a lint free cloth wetted down with Brake Clean wrapped around a small round item. After letting everything evaporate/dry I then install the sensor with the sealant on the sensor threads and refill the oil. But, that is just me. It may well be OK and leakproof to change it in the manner you are asking about, I haven't done it that way. Just be sure to catch any oil and replace that amount after you are done and check for leaks.
That post "New owners of Voyager XII" which Nails referenced is a great source of knowledge and valuable info and should not be overlooked/missed.
Also I have included a photo of the tool which makes removal of the brass terminal so easy.
Have fun,
Dave

Thank you for the clear advise on my concerns. On the horn, i thought the left side horn wires would work till i turn on the key and pressed the horn button, and both became hot. I will re-read multiple times your responses and follow them.
On the Led headlight, i again removed the fairing and thought i disconnected the Rlu but i think i disconnected the turn signal cancelling box. It was the smaller of the two boxes and i just unplugged it but did not solve my LED issue. Will follow your instructions next time.
Thanks again. Oh, have paid the yearly dues today and not sure how that affects my messaging or searches yet.
There is alot info here and i will be spending hours reading.
Appreciate it. Jeff

[4redjf]

Thanks for the info.
I'm still stuck on the Air horn install. For some reason both wires on the left side are hot when the key is on.
The brown wire is and the black with strip is also hot.
Now the right side horn is still hooked up.
I am trying to get into the horn circuit through the original horn wires to use the horn button to power the relay for my air horn. Yes i have the wiring diagram and i see the colored wires from button and the horns but doesnt help me on this.
Wondering why both wires on left side horn are hot when key is on? seems that one would be negative till i push the horn button.

[Nails]

Just a guess (I'm not yet up for delving into the schematic this morning), but I seem to recall that this circuit is one that avoids using a latched relay: they initially charge the subject relay by some temporary means, but then keep it "on" using the relay's output itself. I think all the XII relays are identical, and none are latched.

For the cruise control (the relay I fussed with years ago), the polarization of the charge to initially set the CC is opposite from the polarization to keep the CC "on". It took me a while to wrap my squid brain around this, but it's why LEDs don't work in the CC indicator lights. That keep-it-charged circuit has several safety switches to kill the circuit and CC; and I'm guessing that MaKa's reason for this schematic weirdness is a fear that a latched relay might get stuck "on".

IIRC, the circuitry to defeat stuff like the headlight when starting the bike is like this too. My point is that you might find that your horn relay testing is different after the bike is started than before its started.

You're on your own with whether my blather gets you unstuck.