moving pass seat back

[4redjf]

i read where others have used trunk extender but i can't seem to find one online.
So with the luggage box all the way back i still have some room to move the pass seat back. I lengthened the slots on the rails on the bottom of the seat. But the locking device doesn't have the room to move further.
Does anyone have details and pictures of what they did to move the pass seat back?
The Corbin seats and others are too expensive for me right now. Unless there is one that is affordable i will keep the factory seats and try to figure out how to get more room for me.

[GrandpaDenny]

i read where others have used trunk extender but i can't seem to find one online.

Look in the AVA classifrieds, one of our members makes them. It moves the trunk back about 3" IIRC.

[SgtSlag]

One of the very best accessories you can buy for your Voyager! It moves our Trunk back far enough to create a good space between the passenger seat, and the trunk, allowing us to put our bike cover, in its bag, in that spot: the cover acts as a cushion to support the passenger while riding; the bike cover bag does not need to be secured as the passenger's butt holds it in place; it makes the ride incredibly more comfortable for both the Driver, and the Passenger...

I know: Wife and I change positions on the bike, every two hours, or so, so I know what it is like as a passenger, on the Voyager, as well as being the Driver. We also bought a pair of Passenger Highway Pegs, off a member here, who made those, as well. Very highly recommended for the Passenger! The Passenger has little range of movement on the bike, and these really make a huge difference for them, over time. Even so, after about two hours as a Passenger, I need a stretch break, and I need to Drive, as the Passenger's cockpit position is really limited for movement.

On long rides/touring, when the Driver puts their feet on the Emgo Highway Boards, mounted to the engine guard bars, the Passenger can/does stretch their feet and legs by putting their feet onto the Driver's OEM pegs. On the highway, this is not an issue, and it helps, a little bit, for a little while. Every two hours, though, we need a short walk-about, to loosen everything up again, before we can continue riding. Cheers!

[4redjf]

Thanks for the info. I've only been a member for a little while but have read lots of good information on here. The luggage extender that i did read about was the Marsellas or something like that. But that company has closed i believe. I really wouldn't mind a one piece seat since my wife no longer rides with me its just my comfort requirement. Hard to find affordable seats and used ones even harder to get at a decent price.
Got to something about the seat and change the drivers floorboards back to factory. I have the original foot pegs but need to get the factory shifter and see if things work out better for me. Size 13 4E wide foot, doesnt work well with the heel to toe shifter, and also, i have to really lift my legs up for gear changing and for brakes.
Thought about additional seat cushion to raise me up but thats where the pass seat needs to go back some more.
Also, still don't have the turn signal cancelling working yet or the CC will not set. But for now just want to get the comfort things done. Thanks again.

[4redjf]

i read where others have used trunk extender but i can't seem to find one online.

Look in the AVA classifrieds, one of our members makes them. It moves the trunk back about 3" IIRC.

will look around some more but haven't found them yet. Thanks.

[VoyKimmer]

Board member makes these .
He’s a machinists.

Kevin and Holly Wanner
(Magazine Editors)
Kevin: kew427@comcast.net

[Nails]

Got to something about the seat and change the drivers floorboards back to factory.

For the seat, I recommend an Air Hawk. About 2/3s of the way into a 3500 mile ride, as my butt was negotiating terms of surrender, I bought an Air Hawk at some shop in Ohio. The next day, far from recovered, I rode twice as far as ever before. I was reluctant, but it just works. The cheaper knock-offs probably do, too. ( I stuffed mine under beads, where it's been ever since.)

Yeah, I also really tried to like the floorboards. They suck IMHO -- my size 9s wouldn't fit between them either. I got tired of riding pigeon-toed. As a side benefit, I can take corners so much better balancing on the balls of my feet. (I think some XII came from the factory with floorboards.)

I think the trunk extender moves the trunk back, but not the back seat.

I converted my XII to ride solo. I fabricated a butt pad like the front of the stock back seat, then dumped the back seat. I also fabbed a back rest, which I couldn't live without now. I dumped the trunk, using a suitcase instead. And rather than move it back, I moved it forward -- mass centralization. (I think there's also less turbulence than from the trunk.)

I'm 5'8" and like a more compact cockpit -- used to dirt bikes. The butt pad is about at the middle setting for the stock back seat -- not all the way back. The handlebars are about 2" narrower than stock (each side -- 4" total). I made it mine, and I like it fine.

It's all bolt-up so I can put it back. And save the backrest for another bike.

[GrandpaDenny]

One of the very best accessories you can buy for your Voyager! It moves our Trunk back far enough to create a good space between the passenger seat, and the trunk, allowing us to put our bike cover, in its bag, in that spot: the cover acts as a cushion to support the passenger while riding; the bike cover bag does not need to be secured as the passenger's butt holds it in place; it makes the ride incredibly more comfortable for both the Driver, and the Passenger...

I learned my lesson the hard way about putting my bike cover in that spot. Lost two of them. Ok, the first one was at 120 mph...

[SgtSlag]

One of the very best accessories you can buy for your Voyager! It moves our Trunk back far enough to create a good space between the passenger seat, and the trunk, allowing us to put our bike cover, in its bag, in that spot: the cover acts as a cushion to support the passenger while riding; the bike cover bag does not need to be secured as the passenger's butt holds it in place; it makes the ride incredibly more comfortable for both the Driver, and the Passenger...

I learned my lesson the hard way about putting my bike cover in that spot. Lost two of them. Ok, the first one was at 120 mph...

Yep, the cover, and the butts, need to be compatible with the space available... We've been doing it for 10 years, and counting, haven't lost it yet. Neither of us tours alone, we always tour two up. We check it, each time we stop, to make sure it is not moving around (hasn't been torn/damaged, yet, either, from this practice). Would hate to lose it, as it is no longer available, as it is, and the replacement price keeps going up, and up...

A bike cover is one of the very best tools to have on a tour... Voyagers attract a lot of lookie-loo's, and leaving it parked overnight, in a hotel lot, is not a good idea -- the cover prevents a lot of temptation for passer's-by. Ours is water resistant, keeping the seats dry, in the morning, free from dew and rain. We will never be without a cover -- too useful, too important.

I suspect we will be trailering our bike to a destination spot, and then doing clover-leaf day tours from there, from now on. The Voyager's fuel pump died on us, 70 miles from our hotel, six States away from home. We hired a tow truck company to haul us, and the bike, back to our hotel. We put it back on the trailer, and finished our vacation in the truck. Have had beastly hot tours, where we switched to our cage, leaving the bike at the air b-n-b, as it would have been miserable on the bike, even with our mesh jackets on.

We've been through the grist mill of motorcycle touring in the past. We had four days of rain, temp's in the mid-50's F, suffering hypothermia, wearing poor jackets and other insufficient gear, soaked to the bone. It sucked diesel exhaust! It was our first, serious motorcycle tour we did: circled Lake Superior on our then 30-year-old Honda, just the two of us and that one bike (didn't have the Lowers installed on that trip, so our legs were in the cold rain, and stiff...). Not afraid of rain anymore. Never want to do that again. Trailering our bike is our preferred method. Cheers!

[4redjf]

Board member makes these .
He’s a machinists.

Kevin and Holly Wanner
(Magazine Editors)
Kevin: kew427@comcast.net

Thanks,
Got some good news and updates on my issues. Did a 100 mile test run today and Got the CC working, it was the wires going to the new switch on the the front brake. Cleaned and slightly crimped them for a firm grip on the new switch terminals. And dont know what happened with the turn signal cancellation function, but they work now as well. Is the CC brake switch connected somehow to the TS cancellation?? or is it just a connection that finally started working?
I've still got to change the leaking oil sensor, a very small drop of oil but it bothers me. Got the part and may change it out this week.
I need to get a factory style gear changer lever if i switch back to the OEM foot pegs. Any thoughts?
Also, the PO had these wind deflectors mounted to the plastic and i removed them cause afraid of breaking the plastic parts where the air and cb things are. they make a lot of stress on these areas when your running more than 30mph. But the air really helps when its 90deg plus out.

[GrandpaDenny]

Yep, the cover, and the butts, need to be compatible with the space available... We've been doing it for 10 years, and counting, haven't lost it yet. Neither of us tours alone, we always tour two up. We check it, each time we stop, to make sure it is not moving around (hasn't been torn/damaged, yet, either, from this practice). Would hate to lose it, as it is no longer available, as it is, and the replacement price keeps going up, and up...

A bike cover is one of the very best tools to have on a tour... Voyagers attract a lot of lookie-loo's, and leaving it parked overnight, in a hotel lot, is not a good idea -- the cover prevents a lot of temptation for passer's-by. Ours is water resistant, keeping the seats dry, in the morning, free from dew and rain. We will never be without a cover -- too useful, too important.

Ah, that's why I lost mine - no butt back there holding it in. Either time. The first time, going 120, when I got home I also discovered I'd broken the radio antenna off and broken the mount for the CB antenna. Yee-haw!

Alas, poor Gertrude. I knew her. I rode the *%$&^# out of her, and steadily improved her. It was a sad, sad day when she got totalled. I found a 2003 the other day that has everything I want - all the proper trims and pieces and wind deflectors, and a backrest, and a trailer hitch, and a CB, and is low, low mileage. Too bad I don't have any money! I think it was also kind of iffy - the bike's in Wisconsin I think, and the owner's moved to Hawaii.

I usually have two covers - a full cover for stormy weather, and a half-cover for when on the road, just enough to keep the seats and electronics dry.

[Nails]

I need to get a factory style gear changer lever if i switch back to the OEM foot pegs. Any thoughts?

I think "factory style" was usually floorboards, so you need "footpeg style". This rotates the shifter input shaft the opposite direction from the "floorboard style" -- the rod from the shifter goes above the input shaft for one and below for the other. I vaguely recall a minor hassle with a brake line fitting, surmountable.

Be sure to securely snug the pinch bolt on that input shaft. If there's play in it, shifting can take a BIG effort. (Nope, I'm not sure why either; but long ago I quit believing everything I think anyway. My XII came with such looseness, and the toe on my left boot had scars by the time I figured this out. Tightened it up, and the shifting suddenly became very easy.)

Related, you'll also have to readjust the rear brake lever because your feet will be lower with pegs. (Maybe the other way around -- I've slept a few times since swapping out the floorboards.)

Definitely large benefit-to-effort ratio here.

[GrandpaDenny]

Floorboards for driver were an option. Stock was footpegs. Passengers always had floorboards.

[4redjf]

putting the seat project aside for now.
Just run into another problem.. The PO had told me that he had a oil leak at one of the drain bolts when he changed the oil. He said he didn't use new washers and so he re changed the oil with new washers.
Well i like to know for myself on maint things, so i went to change the oil and one of the bolts was loose slightly. both bolts have new washers on them but one also has some telflon tape or similar on it. that was the one that was loose. once the oil is drained and i can get a look at the threads i should know the problem.
Question: is if its threads are stripped or damaged what would be a great solution?
I do have a tap n die set but that means taking off the bottom pan.
would there be a better bolt n washer solution?

[SgtSlag]

Get yourself a torque wrench... The pan is aluminum, and if you do not properly torque the drain bolts (two of them, at different rates -- see the manual for details...), you will have more problems.

I never change the copper washers, and I have never had an issue, but i use a torque wrench every time I replace the drain plugs.

HF sells one that is affordable @ $20 (5-80 ft.-lbs.), accurate enough for government work -- and for me, these past 18 years, and for three bikes! Cheers!

[4redjf]

Get yourself a torque wrench... The pan is aluminum, and if you do not properly torque the drain bolts (two of them, at different rates -- see the manual for details...), you will have more problems.

I never change the copper washers, and I have never had an issue, but i use a torque wrench every time I replace the drain plugs.

HF sells one that is affordable @ $20 (5-80 ft.-lbs.), accurate enough for government work -- and for me, these past 18 years, and for three bikes! Cheers!

thanks, i have torque wrenches. just finished with one of the drain bolts with new Al washer. It tightened just fine. Put new K N oil filter in, new rubber seal which was larger in thickness than the one in it but seemed to fit the groove more fully, and tighted to the torque, 14.5 but only went to 14.
Now i just took a pic of the threads on the Leaker drain hole. hard to get a good pic. but looks like the threads are cracked. That's probably why it started loosening up after my 100 mile ride.
So now i need to research what would be my fix. tapping it out and insert is not my strong point.
I prefer to try cleaning up the threads and using a bolt that would tighten better.

[VoyKimmer]

When the oil drain plug threads get damaged the only fix is to find a replacement oil pan. Contact Carl Leo.
You should only use specified torque values when replacing with new washer otherwise torque will be incorrect.
Crushing the new washer is taken in effect the torque.

[4redjf]

When the oil drain plug threads get damaged the only fix is to find a replacement oil pan. Contact Carl Leo.
You should only use specified torque values when replacing with new washer otherwise torque will be incorrect.
Crushing the new washer is taken in effect the torque.

thanks, yeah a replacement oil pan but there i'm at the mercy of the used oil pan and if the threads and other areas are good.
There is so many things that must come off in order to replace the oil pan. Since i just got the bike i dont know what the PO did and just like this oil plug. I was hoping to ride some before i get into anything major. That is why i was asking about a solution for now on the stripped threads.
They do make a Bolt that has another bolt inside of it, that might work. years ago i used on on a dirt bike. Many years ago.
I wonder if i could just seal off the bolt hole some how? and later when i needed to do the oil change, just replace the oil pan.

[SgtSlag]

I installed a CB900 Oil Cooler on my CB750K. I bought a machined adapter, using Plummer's Teflon Tape to seal the 90-degree, brass elbow hose barbs in the adapter, and again, with the brass hose barbs on the automatic Oil Thermostat. Maximum oil pressure the engine was capable of, was 40 PSI, if I remember correctly.

They all leaked oil under pressure, when driving. The oil ran down, and would have dripped in the path of the rear tire!

It should have worked, I think... Not a Chemist, just sharing what I think might help you out.

The Thread Sealant worked, after I let it cure the recommended time (with the product I used, after it cured, moving the items would have resulted in leakage -- not repositionable once it set). I never had an oil leak from them, for the two years I had the bike afterwards. Cooler dropped sump oil temperature from 250 F, two-up, highway speeds, with full saddlebags and trunk (air temp was 80 F -- I tested it), down to 210 F, same load, only air temp was 90 F! The oil always ran at 210 F, but only if the air temp was 70+ F, even though the thermostat only pushed 10% of the oil up to the cooler, when it was closed (sent 95% of the oil to the cooler, when it was open).

Checked Amazon.com for Permatex Hydraulic Thread Sealants. Not sure if this is the one, but it might be what I used. Likely any one of them will work, as long as they are resistant to motor oil, and they can handle 80 PSI. Cheers!

[4redjf]

Checked Amazon.com for Permatex Hydraulic Thread Sealants. [url=https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-Thread-Sealant-PTFE-Not sure if this is the one[/url], but it might be what I used. Likely any one of them will work, as long as they are resistant to motor oil, and they can handle 80 PSI. Cheers!

Thanks, got a lightning storm and rain earlier so i had to stop work since i'm working under a carport.
I have a permatex thread sealant for high temp, 59235. But it does say repositional so i don't believe it will work for making the drain bolt permanently secure.
I'm looking at spending alittle extra to try some things like M12.1-1.5 x 15mm Oversize Piggyback Oil Drain Plug, Stainless Steel Self Tapping Oil Pan Thread Repair Kit. Just reading about it now on Amazon
I hope to be able to seal off and secure this oil drain plug for now and by the next oil change have all the parts to change out the oil pan. Some people recommend JB Weld but there are so many types out there now. I wanted to know that it is fully sealed up and not have to drain my new oil. I do not like drips or leaks no matter how small.