Engine Oil & Weight

[Sarge1961]

Ok here goes and I'm sure this has been asked answered before but I've been unable to find a response. I'm fixing to do an oil change on my bike and I'm not sure what the previous owner used before me. Now I've been told by the dealer to go to Synthetic and I've also been told to use Shell Rotella Motor Oil. When I went to Wal Mart they had a couple of different weight's. So my question to you my fellow rider's is what should I use and what weight?

I would like to thank all of you respond to my question in advance and I look forward to reading your responses.

[David (N. Alabama)]

It all depends on what bike you have and how many miles are on it.

On my 2010 Voyager 1700, I stuck with Kawasaki dino oil until several thousand miles and then switched to Mobil 1 synthetic 20-50.

On the Voyager XII, the guru (Carl Leo) recommends Rotella dyno oil for a quiet smooth running engine. They also say 3 quarts 22 ounces. Not a drop more or less. Also make sure you pull two drain plugs plus the filter.

[SgtSlag]

Conventional oils are made with long molecules, which allow it to shift viscosity, for example, from 10 weight, to 40 weight, as it warms up. These long molecules get chopped up by the transmissions of M/C's, which after around 1,000-1,500 miles, makes it revert to its thinnest weight, 10 weight, in my example, and it stays that way, until it is replaced. Full synthetics do not have long molecules, so they cannot be torn apart by the transmissions of M/C's, so they maintain their multi-viscosity properties, longer; they can typically be used for longer drain periods, but oil analysis is highly recommended to monitor your oil's/engine's condition!

Conventional oils break down into carbon sludge above 250 F. Synthetic oils brake down into carbon sludge above 400 F. Water-cooled bikes never rise much above 210-220 F, when they work properly; air-cooled bikes can run right at 250 F (my '79 Honda CB750K did this, all the time -- had an oil temperature gauge, with an oil cooler, so I base this on fact, not supposition). Even though synthetic oils can withstand higher temperatures, seals, and gaskets, don't tolerate it well, so running hot is not good, even with full synthetics.

The Shell Rotella T, is conventional: high levels of detergent; rated by JASO for use in M/C's; rated CJ-4 for diesels; rated SN for cars; no Energy Star rating -- no friction modifiers to affect a wet clutch; very affordable, very reliable, in all engines; 15W-40 viscosity.

The Shell Rotella T6 is actually a conventional oil (check its MSDS sheet, which states it is made from Level III base stock, not Level IV), but it behaves as though it were a full synthetic: same ratings as the T conventional; 5W-40 viscosity; used in all of my engines, spun the car over, in sub-zero F temperatures, after sitting nine hours in it, as if it were 80 F in July!

Since 90% of all engine wear occurs at start-up, when the engine is starved for oil/lubrication (cold, thick oil, won't flow easily...), I run the T6/5W-40: it is thinner than what Kawasaki recommends, but as the engine warms up, it thickens up to 40 weight, so I don't see an issue.

Oil is a touchy subject. Do your research, and then you can make an informed decision. Cheers!

[gearheadfla]

Rotella T 15w-40 for me, three years now and works great in my 88 XII, now I have a 07 Vulcan Nomad also and need to find out what to use in it, anybody out there have a opinion ?

[kjsett]

Ok here goes and I'm sure this has been asked answered before but I've been unable to find a response. I'm fixing to do an oil change on my bike and I'm not sure what the previous owner used before me. Now I've been told by the dealer to go to Synthetic and I've also been told to use Shell Rotella Motor Oil. When I went to Wal Mart they had a couple of different weight's. So my question to you my fellow rider's is what should I use and what weight?

I would like to thank all of you respond to my question in advance and I look forward to reading your responses.

Been using Rotella T6 in my Dodge Cummins (290k and going strong) for years. After reading Carl's recommendations (need I say more), I use the same in both of my Kawa's (XII and a Vn800a). This way, only 2 oil types (car also uses synth, Wally brand though) that I have to keep on the shelf
Happy so far. Here in Phoenix, heat is a greater issue than cold, but I moved here from Colorado and still go there to visit: Holidays in the truck (4x4) and summers on the bikes.
Notes: remember to drain both bolts; and use the exact recommended amount. Also, there is a soft metal washer on the bolt, reuse or replace, but don't drop it into the oil drain pan and not put it back on. Leaks a regular drip only, but once I figured it out, had to redrain into a clean pan and put it back on.
Also, all three are set up with K&N air filters. It gets really dusty down here in the desert.
Sludge versus extended oil changes, is there really a choice.

[Skibou]

Very good advice on the soft washer issue. They cost so little, and can be worth so much. Mine didn't have any , so I reefed a little too hard on one of the drain plugs. Currently waiting for delivery of the replacement oil pan. OUCH! BTW regarding the 3 quart 22 oz. recommendation, up here in metric land we buy in litres, and the measurement of the recommended amount required some thought and inventive measurement. I checked my manual, and it recommended using 3.5 litres. Guess what 3.5 litres converts to in the combined volume and liquid weight scales? ---- 3 quarts 22oz!

[SgtSlag]

A clicker torque wrench may not be the most accurate, but they're inexpensive, and closer to the correct torque than my right arm by itself... They typically run around $20 at HF; the Pittsburgh brand they typically carry is guaranteed by Pittsburgh Co., for the life of the tool (the cost of replacement through the maker is likely more than the cost to buy a new one...). The very little usage it gets by me (owned it for six years now), makes it money well spent. YMMV. Cheers!

[doug of so fla]

Usage of a torque wrench on the XII will save you BIG!!! headaches down the road on flanged bolts and especially oil plugs & filter, The oil plugs are built on a stanchion with slots in it so it does not have much "meat" to it. If threads are not damaged to bad you can "Chase" them with a 1/2" coarse thread tap and get a 1/2" plug with soft gasket, and use it. It will work forever. Steel bolts into alum you must not over tighten!!
Rottella T6 15/40 is excellent oil for the XII many thousands of miles tested in all conditions.

[jn1200]

amsoil 10-40