fairing material and how to patch?

[newrider1949]

Hello all, one of the attachment points on the left side of the fairing has snapped and I would like to reattach and reinforce the piece. What material is the fairing made of? Will I be able to use JBweld or Fiberglass to rebuild it? If not, any recommendations?

thanks

Larry

[triton28]

The plastics are primarily made of ABS and some members have successfully reattached broken bits using ABS cement. This method I can not comment on never having tried it but I'm sure it may work.
I was brought up in the age of resins in the 60s so I use a different method.
Some repairs require a plug to get the shape desired and this is a little more involved so I won't go into that here as there are websites which can explain it better than I.
I grind both sides of a remaining flange, let's say, to leave a center leaf of the original. then I drill transfer holes through this leaf to ensure both sides of the repair are connected when the epoxy is viscous. I do not use polyester resin, only epoxy due to the inherent strength of epoxy. This epoxy is also saturating fiberglass cloth laid in several thicknesses on both sides of the leaf/remaining original area and is connecting with the other side through the transfer holes.
Then when this application of resin and cloth has almost set and is no longer viscous another layer of epoxy resin and multiple layers of cloth are repeated to the repair area. Some repairs will need a 3rd application when the 2nd is almost set.
The key here is not to let the previous application of resin and cloth completely set/harden: as then one has a COLD joint and that becomes separate layers and could separate later with time and vibration. Also the cloth must seem to disappear into the resin which is how it appears when it is saturated with the epoxy resin; only the grain of the cloth should seem to be there not the white silver colour of the cloth.
The repair area is feathered into the surrounding undamaged area of the item being repaired. Once all the epoxy has hardened for at least 48 hours I set about to shape and machine the repair. I have attached a JPEG of some repairs I have done to the most common upper cowling broken mounts. The photo shows how I have blended the repairs in to match the original and one can discern the cloth embedded in the resin. I have done quite a few of these and none have failed a second time, well so far at least and some are 8-9 years old now.
Use a light weight cloth if there are bends in the desired shape to be achieved as heavier cloth does not like to conform to inside corners/curves.
I mostly use a disposable clear plastic 60 ml dose cup to mix in and have the cloth ready to apply to the repair area.
I also use a thickening powder to give the resin some thickness which prevents the resin from just running off of the repair area. How much is a matter of experience but I like a consistency where the resin does not run but rather is still liquid enough to saturate the cloth and connect/blend with the resin on the other side of the transfer holes. These 2 points are paramount to achieve for a strong repair.
There is no mystery to this just don rubber gloves and go once all is prepped and ready, you'll see how simple this process is once you have tried it.
Dave

[newrider1949]

Thanks for the great detailed instructions Dave, the pic is even extra helpful.

all the best

Larry

[GrandpaDenny]

Black ABS cement from the hardware store.

[SgtSlag]

I've made several repairs to bike fairings (Voyager, Vetter, and some other ABS Tupperware maker from the 1980's), using Plastic Pipe Cement, from the hardware store: ABS plastic dissolved in Acetone -- when the thick Glue is applied, the Acetone evaporates leaving hardened ABS plastic behind.

If you are repairing a broken screw attachment point, on the fairing, Pipe Glue will work, however, if you do not relieve the stress which initially caused the facture, the repaired plastic will break, in exactly the same location! I know, because I experienced this: my repair was to weld the screw attachment point back to the larger fairing, but it broke shortly thereafter, from the same stress that broke it originally...

I could not figure out the stress factor, so I cinched it in place using black Zip-Ties, leaving them somewhat loose, to avoid stressing the ABS Plastic too much, leading to another fracture! I've had to take the fairing off a few times, to work on the Cruise Control Module, and the headlight (replaced the Halogen bulb with an LED), but the Zip-Tie's never failed. Sounds horrible, I know, but we've logged 30,000+ miles on my Zip-Tie repairs without issues.

I had an ABS Trunk on my Honda that was cracked in a couple of its corners, top and bottom assemblies. I covered the outside with blue painter's tape, then I brushed on the Pipe Cement, on the inside: the Pipe Cement conformed to the tape, with a rough texture on the inside. When it cured, I removed the tape, which left a mildly rough surface on the outside (the tape glue is not fine), which I could have sanded smooth, if I wanted.

I repaired two Vetter fairings the same way: covered the holes with Painter's Tape, brushed on Pipe Cement, let it dry, then I removed the tape. It works, superbly.

The Voyager XII's Tupperware is made out of the same ABS Plastic that Craig Vetter used on his Windjammer/Vindicator/QuickSilver fairings, as well as other 3rd party motorcycle Tupperware makers used. The cured ABS Glue can be sanded/ground, as needed. It can be spray painted, or professionally painted, also.

If you want/need to make your own ABS Repair kit, in a color different than black (Pipe Cement is always black, that I know of), just get some ABS Plastic in the needed color, and dissolve it in some Acetone, then apply and let it dry. Cheers!